What are thickeners?
What are thickeners?
Thickeners are ingredients that increase the viscosity and thickness of cosmetic formulations. These substances give a product the desired consistency and performance profile.
Key features of thickeners
Besides controlling flow and rheological properties, thickeners exhibit:
- improved spreadability
- particle separation
- increased emulsion stability
- sensory characteristics
- prevents phase separation
Hence, they are suitable for creams and lotions used in skin care, hair care, and sun care products.
Families of thickeners - An overview
a. Natural thickeners
b. Synthetic thickeners:
- They are chemically synthesized. They help to control the rheology of formulations.
- These include acrylates (e.g., carbomer).
c. Associative thickeners
Browse thickener grades used in cosmetic formulations:
By choosing the right thickener, you can create an effective product that is easy to use and comfortable to wear.
How to address incompatibility issues within formulation?
Which factors influence the selection of thickeners?
Which factors influence the selection of thickeners?
For the selection of an appropriate thickener, it is crucial to understand the specific needs of the formulation. Thickeners should align with the product's intended use. It should also cater to the target audience's preferences. The following are the factors that influence the selection of thickeners.
Tailoring viscosity for optimal selection
The desired viscosity of a formulation is a key consideration for selecting a thickener. Different cosmetic products need varying viscosities to achieve their intended functions. For example:
- A lotion or cream may need a moderate viscosity. It should allow easy spreading and absorption into the skin.
- A gel may need a higher viscosity for better control and adherence.
The selected thickener should be able to provide the desired viscosity range to meet the requirements. Check out all thickeners for creams, lotions, and gels »
The impact of texture for enhanced user experience
The texture of a cosmetic formulation impacts the user experience and perception. It affects attributes such as:
- smoothness,
- silkiness,
- creaminess, and
- overall sensory appeal.
The thickener plays a crucial role in achieving the desired texture of the product. For e.g., a thickener that imparts a luxurious and velvety feel may be preferred for high-end creams. Whereas, a lightweight and non-greasy texture may be desired for lotions. The chosen thickener should align with the desired texture attributes of the formulation.
Safeguarding long-term stability of formulations
Stability helps in maintaining the integrity, appearance, and performance of formulations. Thickeners contribute to the stability of the formulations. It does so by preventing:
- phase separation,
- syneresis (water separation), or
- changes in viscosity.
They ensure that the formulation remains homogenous, consistent, and visually appealing. These properties are to be maintained throughout the shelf life. The thickener should be compatible with the other ingredients and manufacturing processes. It must provide long-term stability to the formulation.
Sensory Attributes: Elevating product experience
Sensory attributes refer to the sensory experience and perception of the product. This includes various factors. For e.g., smoothness, silkiness, greasiness, tackiness, and skin feel. The thickener can impact these attributes by influencing factors such as:
- spreadability,
- glide,
- absorption, and
- after-feel.
For e.g., a thickener enhancing spreadability and imparting a non-greasy, lightweight feel can be used for lotions or serums. The chosen thickener should align with the desired sensory attributes of the formulation. This should in turn ensure consumer satisfaction.
The intended use: Leave-on or rinse-off applications
While selecting a thickener, the intended use of the product should also be considered. For example:
- Leave-on products need thickeners that provide longer-lasting viscosity and film-forming properties. This ensures that the product remains on the skin. For e.g., moisturizers or serums.
- Rinse-off products need thickeners that offer good foam stability and viscosity during application. They should allow easy rinse-off without leaving residue. For e.g., shampoos or body washes. The thickener should be suitable for the specific use of the formulation.
Incorporating the consumer-centric approach
It is crucial to consider the preferences of the target audience. Different consumer groups may have varying preferences for:
- viscosity,
- texture,
- absorption, and
- sensory experience.
For e.g., a thickener providing a rich and nourishing feel can be favored by consumers seeking intense hydration. Whereas, those desiring lightweight and fast-absorbing products may prefer a different thickener. This ensures the formulation meets the expectations. It enhances the acceptance of the product.
Checklist for the selection of thickeners by suppliers and manufacturers
Suppliers or manufacturers of thickeners can provide:
- valuable technical information,
- formulation guidelines, and
- support in selecting the most suitable thickeners for specific applications.
Establishing partnerships with reliable suppliers can ease the selection process. It enhances the success of the formulation. Key information should be covered in the technical data from suppliers or manufacturers of thickeners. This information will help formulators to make informed decisions. It ensures the successful integration of the thickener into their cosmetic formulations. Below are some specific details that should be included in the technical data.
Information on chemical properties of thickeners
The technical data should provide information on the chemical composition of the thickener. This includes the:
- primary active ingredient(s),
- functional groups, and
- any other relevant chemical characteristics.
Understanding the composition is essential. This helps in assessing the compatibility of the thickener with other formulation components.
Information on physical properties of thickeners
The technical data should cover the physical properties of the thickener. This includes aspects such as appearance, color, odor (if applicable), solubility, and particle size (if relevant). These properties can impact the formulation process and the final attributes of the product.
Information on rheological properties of thickeners
Detailed information about the rheological properties of the thickener is crucial. This includes:
- data on viscosity range,
- shear-thinning behavior,
- thixotropic properties,
- yield stress, and
- any other relevant rheological characteristics.
These properties allow formulators to select a thickener that can achieve the desired texture and flow behavior in the final product.
Data about compatibility and stability of thickeners
The technical data should provide information on the compatibility of the thickener. It should be compatible with various formulation components. For e.g., surfactants, emulsifiers, active ingredients, and preservatives. It should also specify incompatibilities with certain ingredients or formulation conditions. Stability data, such as resistance to temperature, pH, and shear, should also be included. This enables to assess the thickener's stability in the formulation.
Guidelines on recommended usage levels
The technical data should provide clear guidelines on the recommended usage levels of the thickener. It should be available for different types of cosmetic formulations. This includes the minimum and maximum concentrations required. It helps to achieve the desired rheological properties and functional benefits. It should also specify specific instructions for incorporating the thickener into the formulation. This includes pre-dispersion or pH change.
Complying with regulatory guidelines
The thickener should comply with relevant regulatory requirements and standards for cosmetic products. It should specify any restrictions, limitations, or maximum usage levels imposed by regulatory authorities. Some certifications include:
Safe handling guidelines
The technical data should address any safety considerations. These include potential hazards, handling precautions, storage conditions, and disposal guidelines. This information ensures that formulators handle the thickener safely. The handling should be in accordance with relevant safety regulations.
What are the test methods influencing the selection of thickeners?
What are the test methods influencing the selection of thickeners?
Performance testing is essential to check the effectiveness of thickeners. They help in achieving the desired:
- rheological properties,
- stability, and
- sensory characteristics of the formulation.
Tests may include viscosity measurements, flow analysis, texture analysis, and consumer perception studies. During these tests, it is important to follow standardized protocols. The accuracy and reproducibility of the results must be ensured by multiple measurements. Formulators should consider the specific requirements of the formulations. Thus, they should adapt the testing procedures accordingly.
Exploring viscosity assessment methods for cosmetic formulations
Viscosity is a crucial parameter to assess the thickness and flow behavior of a cosmetic formulation. Various instruments are used to measure viscosity. These are discussed below.
Brookfield viscometer: A rotational tool for accurate viscosity measurement
This is a widely used rotational viscometer. It measures the resistance to flow by rotating a spindle in the sample. It provides viscosity readings in different units. For e.g., centipoise (cP) or millipascal-seconds (mPa·s).
The sample is placed in the viscometer chamber to perform viscosity measurements using a Brookfield viscometer. The appropriate spindle or rotor is selected based on the expected viscosity range of the formulation. The spindle is then immersed in the sample, and the instrument is set to rotate at a specific speed. As the spindle rotates, the viscometer measures the resistance to flow. This provides viscosity readings.
Brookfield Viscometer (Source: ResearchGate)
Analyzing cone and plate viscometry for precise viscosity data
This viscometer consists of a cone-shaped spindle placed close to a flat plate. As the sample flows between the cone and plate, the resistance to flow is measured. This provides viscosity data.
With a cone and plate viscometer, a small amount of the sample is placed on the flat plate. The cone is lowered to a predetermined gap distance. The instrument applies a controlled rotational force to the cone, causing the sample to flow. The viscometer measures the torque required to rotate the cone. This correlates to the viscosity of the sample.
Schematic Diagram of Cone and Plate Viscometer (Source: ResearchGate)
Decoding viscosity with rheometry
When a rheometer is used for viscosity measurements, the sample is placed between the appropriate geometry. For e.g., concentric cylinders or parallel plates. The instrument applies a controlled shear stress or shear rate to the sample. The resulting viscosity is determined based on the measured shear stress and shear rate relationship.
Exploring behavior through flow analysis techniques
Flow analysis provides insights into the behavior of a formulation during application and use. It helps to determine several parameters. For e.g., shear-thinning (thixotropic) behavior, flow curves, and yield stress. Equipments used for flow analysis are discussed below.
Utilizing flow cup viscometer for time-based analysis
It measures the time taken for a fixed volume of the formulation to flow through an orifice of known dimensions. The flow time can be used to calculate the viscosity of the sample.
To perform flow analysis using this instrument, the cup should be filled with the sample formulation. The operator then releases the sample through the orifice of the cup. It measures the time taken for the sample to flow out. The flow time can be converted into viscosity using established correlations. This is specific to the flow cup viscometer being used.
Utilizing rotational rheometer for flow analysis
It measures the shear stress and shear rate relationship under controlled conditions. This helps in understanding the behavior of the formulation. It allows the sample to be loaded between the appropriate geometries.
The instrument applies controlled shear rates to the sample. The rheometer measures the resulting shear stress and shear rate relationship. This allows for the determination of flow behavior. The measurement includes shear-thinning properties, flow curves, and yield stress.
Texture analysis techniques to determine cosmetic formulation attributes
Texture analysis involves measuring the mechanical properties of a cosmetic formulation. For e.g., hardness, stickiness, spreadability, and creaminess. It helps to assess the sensory attributes and consumer perception of the product. The equipment used for texture analysis is discussed below.
Texture analyzer: Providing objective data about texture
This instrument applies controlled forces to the formulation and measures several parameters. For e.g., compressibility, adhesiveness, consistency, and elasticity. It provides objective data on the texture characteristics of the product.
To conduct texture analysis, a small amount of the formulation is placed on the sample platform of the texture analyzer. The controlled forces to the sample are applied using a probe or a compression plate. This mimics the mechanical interactions that occur during application or use.
Tensile tester: Measuring tensile strength and elongation properties
A tensile tester measures the tensile strength and elongation properties of a formulation. It can be useful for assessing the:
- stretchability,
- firmness, and
- elasticity of gels, creams, or other products with stretchable properties.
When using a tensile tester for texture analysis, the formulation is typically prepared as a film or a gel sample with specific dimensions. The sample is clamped between the grips of the tensile tester, and a controlled force is applied to stretch or compress the sample. The tensile tester measures the force applied and the resulting elongation or deformation of the sample.
Gathering consumer insights from perception studies
This involves gathering feedback from target consumers. It enables the assessment of their:
- preferences,
- sensory experience, and
- overall satisfaction with the product.
Consumer perception studies help evaluate the impact of thickeners on several attributes. For e.g., spreadability, absorption, greasiness, and overall product performance. This can be done through surveys, questionnaires, interviews, or focus groups. They are discussed as follows.
- Surveys and questionnaires: These can be designed by the formulators. They help to gather feedback from target consumers. These surveys may include questions about:
- product performance,
- texture,
- spreadability,
- absorption, and
- overall satisfaction.
The responses are then compiled and analyzed. It provides insights into consumer preferences and perceptions.
- Interviews and focus groups: Formulators conduct interviews or organize focus groups. This allows them to directly engage with consumers. Participants can provide detailed feedback on their sensory experiences, preferences, and suggestions for improvement. These qualitative methods help in understanding the subjective aspects of product performance. It allows the identification of areas for refinement.
What are the regulatory guidelines governing the thickeners' selection?
What are the regulatory guidelines governing the thickeners' selection?
Adherence to regulatory guidelines is vital when selecting thickeners for cosmetics formulations. Thickeners should follow safety and efficacy standards in various regions. Formulators must ensure the selected thickeners are approved for use in their target markets. The specific regulatory guidelines may vary depending on the target market, such as the United States (US) and the European Union (EU). A more detailed explanation of the regulatory considerations for thickeners is given below.
United States (US) regulatory guidelines
In the US, the regulatory authority for cosmetics is the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The FDA regulates cosmetics under the:
- Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and
- Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA).
While the FDA does not provide an approved list of thickeners, the ingredients used in cosmetics must be safe for their intended use. Formulators must ensure that the selected thickeners follow the safety standards outlined in the FD&C Act and the FDA's regulations. This includes ensuring that the thickeners do not contain prohibited or restricted substances. They should meet the requirements for labeling, including ingredient declaration. View thickeners that follow US FDA regulations.
European Union (EU) regulatory guidelines
In the EU, cosmetics are regulated under the European Union's Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. The regulation establishes safety and efficacy requirements for cosmetic products. These are placed in the EU market. Thickeners used in cosmetics must follow the annexes of the cosmetic regulation.
These annexes provide a list of approved substances including thickeners. These annexes specify their conditions of use. Formulators must ensure that the selected thickeners are included in the annexes. They must follow the:
- specified restrictions,
- maximum concentrations, and
- labeling requirements.
Compliance with the EU regulations is indicated by the presence of the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) name. INCI must be indicated in the product's ingredient declaration.
Other international regulations
Other regions and countries may have their own specific regulations governing cosmetic products. These are apart from the US and EU regulations. For instance:
- Health Canada regulates cosmetics in Canada under the Food and Drugs Act and the Cosmetic Regulations.
- The National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) oversees cosmetics in China.
- The Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) regulates cosmetics in Australia.
Resume your selection of thickeners after reading this guide.
About Christian Paleka
Christian Paleka is a dedicated professional in the field of cosmetic science committed to advancing his knowledge and expertise in the industry.
Christian is undertaking a diploma in Cosmetic Science to deepen his understanding of formulation techniques, ingredient selection, and regulatory compliance. He has also undertaken numerous university-level units in chemistry throughout his Bachelor's degree.
Christian is also passionate about teaching students about cosmetic science on the online education platform London International Institute of Cosmetic Science. Through this platform, he shares his expertise, research, and industry updates to foster knowledge exchange and promote best practices in cosmetic formulation. With a commitment to continuous learning and a deep passion for cosmetic science, Christian Paleka strives to contribute to the advancement of the industry and the development of safe, effective, and innovative cosmetic products.
References
- Li Y, Zhou Z, Zhao X, Zhao H, Qu X. The Rheological and Skin Sensory Properties of Cosmetic Emulsions: Influence of Thickening Agents. J Cosmet Sci. 2018 Jan/Feb;69(1):67-75. PMID: 29658879
- Varpe BD, Kulkarni AA, Mali AS. Aloe vera Compositions Used for Medicinal Applications: A Patent Review (2013-till 2020). Recent Pat Food Nutr Agric. 2021;12(2):104-111. doi:10.2174/2212798411999201228192616. PMID: 33371842. Rheological characterization of flow inception of thixotropic yield stress fluids using vane and T-bar geometries - Scientific Figure on ResearchGate
- Horoiwa, Thais & Oliveira, Aurenice & Migotto, Amanda & Cerize, Natalia. (2019). Process Evaluation of Sugar-Based Polymeric Colloidal Nanocarrier Formation. Materials Research. 22. 10.1590/1980-5373-mr-2018-0074
- Rheological characterization of flow inception of thixotropic yield stress fluids using vane and T-bar geometries - Scientific Figure on ResearchGate
- Image (Phase Separation)- Horoiwa, Thais & Oliveira, Aurenice & Migotto, Amanda & Cerize, Natalia. (2019). Process Evaluation of Sugar-Based Polymeric Colloidal Nanocarrier Formation. Materials Research. 22. 10.1590/1980-5373-mr-2018-0074. Licensed under Creative Commons
- https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/80699
- Canva Image (Stefano Oppo from Corelens)