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Cosmetics Ingredients
The material selection platform
Cosmetics Ingredients

MEL

CAS Number 8028-66-8
Chem/IUPAC Name: Naturally occurring substances, honey, a saccharic secretion gathered and stored by honey bees
COSING REF No: 35197
MEL
Honey, also known as MEL, is a sweet and viscous substance produced by a variety of bees. Its color ranges from clear to dark amber or black, and its consistency can be fluid, viscous, or solid. In cosmetics, it is primarily an anti-acne agent, abrasive, binder, depilatory, exfoliant, hair conditioner, and nail conditioner, humectant and skin conditioner.

What is MEL used for?

According to a review article on honey published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, honey is possibly the oldest skincare ingredient, and evidence of its use in eye cream recipes dates back to around 4500 BC. Honey has many beneficial skin care properties due to its complex chemical makeup, including its high moisturizing capacity, calming and antioxidant properties, as well as its powerful antibacterial and antifungal properties.

It is primarily used in leave-on formulations, according to the FDA Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program (VCRP) database. In rinse-off formulations like paste masks and mud packs, it can be found at up to 22%. Honey is reported to be used in baby products at up to 0.01%. It is also reported to be used in lipstick formulations (up to 3%), and dentifrices (up to 0.00035%). Honey is reported to be used in colognes and toilet waters and in hair sprays at up to 0.25% and 0.1%, respectively.

Origin

Forager bees gather sugar-rich nectar from plant sources to make honey. The nectar is distributed, ingested, and regurgitated several times after being brought back to the hive. This process entails the physiochemical changes nectar undergoes, during which bee enzymes reverse sucrose into dextrose and fructose. Traditionally, bees are either removed or sedated with smoke before collecting honey. The honey is then drained by removing and compressing the combs. Combs can also be used to extract honey by putting them in a metal bowl with a drainage hole. On top of the comb, burning embers are placed, and melted honey is drained and gathered. Caps are taken off of combs and put in an extractor where centrifugation is done to extract honey mechanically.

What does MEL do in a formulation?

  • Binding
  • Emollient
  • Humectant
  • Moisturising

Safety profile

Mel has a score of 1 on the skin-deep scale of the Environmental Working Group (EWG), indicating low concerns about cancer, allergies, immunotoxicity, developmental and reproductive toxicity, and use restrictions.

Technical profile

Property Values
pH 2.0-6.0
Solubility Soluble in water
Viscosity ~400 poise (14% water content at 25°C)
6

Commercial Selection : Grades containing solely MEL

3
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