Several species of fungi, particularly Aspergillus oryzae, produce kojiic acid, an organic compound and derivative of 4-pyrone that serves as a chelation agent. Kojic acid is used as a skin-lightening agent in cosmetic products. Kojic acid inhibits melanosis by interfering with the uptake of oxygen required for enzymatic browning.
What is KOJIC ACID used for?
Kojic acid inhibits the growth of bacteria, fungi, and the multiplication of viruses. Tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the biosynthesis of the skin pigment melanin, is inhibited in its rate-limiting catecholase activity. Kojic acid is used in the cosmetics industry because of its ability to fight bacteria, fight free radicals, and protect colors.
- Skin care: It works as an antioxidant and a skin-lightening agent. It is used in cosmetic formulations for fading dark spots, to even the skin tone, and in anti-ageing products. It’s been approved for use in cosmetic products in concentrations of 1 per cent or less. Powders, serums, creams, cleansers, and soaps, among other cosmetic product categories, all contain kojic acid. Kojic acid-containing products can be applied to all non-sensitive parts of the body, but they are most frequently used on the hands and face
Origin
Depending on the source of the carbon, kojic acid can be produced chemically using pyranoid 3,2-enolones or biologically by Aspergillus oryzae and Aspergillus flavus when they directly ferment glucose.
Safety profile
The use of Kojic acid as a cosmetic ingredient is prohibited in some nations, including Switzerland, and it is listed as an "additive" in the Inventory of Cosmetic Ingredients database of Europe. The safety of Kojic acid at a dosage of 2% in leave-on products has been further supported by additional skin sensitization data.
Because kojic acid is not a toxicant in acute, chronic, reproductive, and genotoxicity studies, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel considered that these data posed no safety issues. The Panel did note that some animal data suggest tumour promotion and weak carcinogenicity. Kojic acid, however, is slowly absorbed into the circulation from human skin, and likely would not reach the systemic level at which these effects were seen.
The CIR Expert Panel concluded that kojic acid is safe for use in cosmetic products up to a concentration of 1%. A determination by the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) indicated that Kojic acid is safe for use at a concentration limit of 1%.