TAGS: Sustainability/Natural Cosmetics
An Interview with Petra Riederle, Clariant’s Business Development Manager
Preservatives are needed within cosmetics but have increasingly attracted criticism in the last years, and the industry has been shifting towards providing the same benefits and protections with the least amount of ingredients possible.
While this category of ingredients must be carefully monitored, they are absolutely essential as preservatives:
- assure the safe usage of cosmetic formulation over time and
- prevent the growth of microorganisms harmful to human health.
Driven by the vision and commitment to providing holistic preservation systems, preservation boosting solutions and efficient natural alternatives to cosmetics, Clariant is moving with the regulatory aspects of the industry and new scientific protocols to ensure product protection and consumer safety.
We sat down with Clariant’s Business Development Manager in Preservatives, Petra Riederle to discuss the changes in the cosmetics market in terms of preservatives and how Clariant is leading and providing a solution to the questions and challenges that this progress presents.
1.
What changes are you observing in the cosmetics market in terms of preservatives?
Like in all raw material sectors, we face the trend to more naturality and sustainability but, in the case of preservation, there are still huge regional differences and different customer policies.
For example, in many countries, chloromethylisothiazolone/methylisothiazolone (CMI/MI), parabens, and phenoxyethanol are still tolerated, but in other regions, only COSMOS or even NATRUE is accepted.
Check out Clariant's complete range of preservatives here»
2. Does this mean you must have to face some challenges?
Yes. For instance, the pressure from consumers (mainly influencers on social media) is steadily increasing. In some cases, insufficient information is spread and thus puts the preservatives in a bad light.
Additionally, especially in natural cosmetic formulations, the ingredients are of course also often perfect nutrition for microorganisms, which does not make preservation easier.
Nevertheless, we still have the formulators’ point of view. Our customers must ensure safe products - and this is possible also considering sustainable criteria.
3.
How is Clariant offering a solution?
We are providing a
broad portfolio of preservative solutions for traditional formulations as well as for natural and sustainable demands.
Just to give you an example, our
boosters of natural origin like
Velsan® CGE and
Velsan® SC – both COSMOS and NATRUE certified – but also our
Velsan® Flex can perfectly close the gap with appropriate combinations.
Natural, Renewable Preservative Booster: Velsan® CGE
Velsan® CGE is a broad-spectrum preservation booster with a Renewable Carbon Index (RCI) of 100%. Thanks to its versatility it acts as an emollient spreading easily and providing less greasy, lighter emulsions. In addition, it also acts as deo active in natural deodorants.
View Technical Datasheet»
Lower the Amount of Preservative Used: Velsan® SC
Velsan® SC is a 100% natural multifunctional ingredient. It is also Clariant’s sustainable solution to lower the amount of preservatives
used while keeping cosmetics safe. It can also act as an emollient and/or emulsifier depending on the formulation.
View Technical Datasheet»
Flexibility in Boosting Preservation: Velsan® Flex
Velsan® Flex is a multifunctional preservation booster. Thanks to its high-water solubility and Renewable Carbon Index (RCI) of 93%, the award-winning Velsan® Flex meets the rapidly evolving challenges of international personal care markets by allowing formulators to reduce preservative load together with broad formulation flexibility.
Download Technical Paper»
On top, customer service is very important for us. This means we want to support our customers in all matters. Whether consulting by experts, full documentation or of course our lab service.
Customers in general are very cautious about changing existing preservative systems that are working well. We, for example, offer our customers support by carrying out challenge tests according to Pharm. Eur. or DIN ISO and help to find the best preservative system for our customers.
Register to Clarihub and obtain access to the Clarify tool here»
4.
Can you share an example of the impact of your boosters in a classic formula?
Yes, for sure! A good example is Velsan® CGE. It is possible to increase the RCI in a leave-on formulation from 90% up to 100% by using Velsan® CGE.
Velsan® CGE has an RCI of 100% and a standard formulation containing ethylhexylglycerin (EHG) with natural benzyl alcohol can reach 100% RCI when EHG is substituted with Velsan® CGE.
Find out complete range of preservatives by Clariant
View the full range of
preservatives, analyze technical data of each product, get technical assistance or request samples.
About Petra Riederle
Petra Riederle works as Business Development Manager of Preservatives (DACH|CEE|GR|TR) within Clariant. She started this role early in 2022 and she is based in Germany. Riederle has been working in preservative technology for over 25 years.
Before joining Clariant, she worked in TER INGREDIENTS GMBH CO and Ashland Inc. (ehenmals schülke Personal Care).
She gained experience in various fields as Head of Laboratory at Bio-Chemisches Laboratorium, Sales Manager, and Head of Technical Support at Schülke & Mayr. Bio-Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Lehmann GmbH & Co. KG.
Clariant’s Portfolio of Preservatives and Preservation Boosters
Ultimate Guide to Select the Right Preservative For Your Cosmetics