TAGS: in-cosmetics Sustainability / Natural Cosmetics
With over 700 leading personal care ingredient suppliers in attendance and over 180 ingredients unveiled, the in-cosmetics Global witnessed some of the most amazing innovations this year.
Credit: SpecialChem Team
Held at the Fira Barcelona Gran Via in Barcelona, Spain, the event witnessed a record-breaking 250 entries for the 2023 awards indicating quite clearly that the industry is at a point of getting better with how they formulate to meet up with customer’s demands and care for the planet by embracing sustainability.
Let’s find out which ingredients created the buzz and what some of the topmost suppliers are up to this year!
Upcycling is the New Way of Formulating
The concept of zero-waste & a closed-loop economy is what upcycling is all about. When suppliers are striving to substantiate their sustainability claims, formulating with upcycled ingredients highlights the efforts for the same while being creative.
Ashland has come up with 2 ingredients that were seen on display:
- Liftyl™ biofunctional is made by upcycling wood chips, the by-product of the rosewood essential oil distillation process used in premium fragrances. It is based on the latest ethno-genomic research in facial sculpting. The rosewood extract is sustainably sourced with full traceability, transparency, and CITES-required documentation.
- Saffragyl™ biofunctional uses 100% natural, biodegradable upcycled saffron flower by-product from the saffron spice handcraft for protecting the gums from signs of gingivitis such as bleeding and inflammation.
BASF launched
Kerasylium™, a micro-complex, rich in peptides and a plant-based alternative to otherwise animal-sourced keratins. It is derived by upcycling milk thistle (
Silybum marianum) seed cake, a by-product of milk thistle oil production. The milk thistle used is grown in France for oil production and is based on a traceable and sustainable supply chain.
Regenight™ from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics is upcycled from Australian tea tree oil manufacturing. It works on the skin to revitalize-repair-rejuvenate-restore it. Regenight™ boosts the expression of melatonin-associated genes and restores the antioxidant capacity to improve night-time skin regeneration and daily damage repair for rejuvenated, revitalized healthier-looking skin.
Placebo (R), Regenight™ from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (L)
(Credit: Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
More ingredients in this category came from TRI-K Industries with its
EssentiaTein™ Protect, a vegan-based ingredient derived from upcycled rice and baobab that protects hair from pollution and repairs hair from UV damage and oxidative stress. SOPHIM launched
PhytOlive®Fine, upcycled from olive stones that offers a good exfoliating efficiency.
Skin Loves its Microbiome
Consumers are looking for ingredients that help restore the microbiome of a healthy skin. All innovations are driven by this awareness to work on the restoration and then improve the skin feel.
This year, the display witnessed the following innovations:
- Solvay’s Mirasoft® surfactant range is produced through a cost-efficient fermentation process. The 2 grades announced are: Mirasoft® SL A60 and Mirasoft® SL L60, certified as "Microbiome-friendly" by MyMicrobiome®. Both are non-irritating grades that regulate sebum production and inhibit microorganisms that cause acne, irritation, and dandruff.
- Adaptogen FermBiotic® S by Vantage Personal Care is based on microbiome-supporting fermented complexes. It improves collagen levels in skin cells, softens & smooths the skin texture, and restores its natural glow.
- Ashland’s Saffragyl™ biofunctional is a microbiome-friendly, gum-friendly alternative to curative but potentially aggressive solutions such as chlorhexidine to treat gingival inflammation and plaque build-up. It is safe to be used daily.
Sustainability Features of Ashland's Saffragyl™ biofunctional
(Credit: Ashland)
Sensory Ingredients Dedicated to Well-being
Seppic launched
SEPIBLISS™ FEEL, a liposoluble and eco-friendly grade extracted from coriander seeds. This soothing agent ensures skin safety, neuronal protection, nourishing and comforting effects.
SantEnergy™ launched by Mibelle Biochemistry has been designed for beard growth. It is a powerful antioxidant derived from a natural extract from the Yerba Santa plant. It delays the aging of hair follicles while protecting them from oxidative stress. Due to its energizing effect, it leads to hair growth and increased density.
Inolex announced its 100% natural conditioning agent:
AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB which has been designed according to green chemistry principles. It has an excellent sensory effect, increases hair strength, and prevents breakage. It is gentle on the scalp, eyes, and skin and is also biodegradable.
AI to Innovate Faster & Better
Givaudan announced its fragrance creation territory dedicated to wellbeing - ‘Well&Be’. It combines digital innovation including both Myrissi™ and MoodScentz™+ artificial intelligence (AI) technologies to allow product creation to reach its fullest potential. The innovation stems from formulating for total well-being powered by fragrances.
Moodify, an Israeli technology startup company launched the ‘Moodify White’ software solution - the world’s first AI-based algorithmic Malodor Control Formulation Application which helps mask bad smells enabling a quick, highly effective, and component-flexible malodor control formulation process. It is the result of more than 15 years of academic research and extensive development of Moodify AI-based algorithms. It eliminates the perception of bad smells in a way that outperforms the best malodor control benchmarks created by any other firm.
Winners of the Innovation Zone
Submissions were received from all over the world to honor innovations that will contribute to revolutionizing how cosmetics are formulated.
Active ingredient award goes to:
1. Gold Award Winner: CALMandrin™ by Mibelle Biochemistry
CALMandrin™ by Mibelle Biochemistry is a sustainably sourced ingredient, obtained by upcycling the peel paste from unique organic Chios mandarins. Its benefits include improved signs of aging, soothing reddened and inflamed skin, and increased firmness and density of the skin.
Credit: Mibelle Biochemistry
2. Silver Award Winner: ALTHEOSTEM™ by Provital
ALTHEOSTEM™ by Provital, a dermohacking active is a lab-grown ingredient derived from
Althaea rosea petal stem cells. Eliminates senescent fibroblasts and leads to healthier & youthful skin in vivo.
3. Bronze Award Winner: Bicobiome® by Bicosome
Bicobiome® by Bicosome is a patented skin delivery system with a dual structure made from natural origin non-GMO lipids.
Functional ingredient award goes to:
1. Gold Award Winner: AURIST™ AGC by IFF
AURIST™ AGC by IFF is a water-soluble, cationic biopolymer that delivers conditioning benefits on hair, improving both wet and dry combability. Backed by strong bioscience capabilities, the natural-inspired conditioning biopolymer is readily biodegradable and easy to use in formulations.
2. Silver Award Winner - Aristoflex® Eco T from Clariant
Aristoflex® Eco T from Clariant is derived from tara gum and AMPS which is a readily biodegradable rheology modifier for leave-on applications. Offers good spreadability combined with fresh skin feel during application. It also creates appealing textures combined with excellent viscosity and temperature-stable formulation for improved stability even on hot summer days.
Credit: Mibelle Biochemistry
3. Bronze Award Winner: TEGO® FILMSTAR One MB by Evonik
TEGO® FILMSTAR One MB by Evonik is a fully bioderived and biodegradable film former that combines superior sensorial performance and broad formulation compatibility. Performance comparable to fossil based and non-biodegradable film formers can be achieved with this sustainable alternative.
With no more travel restrictions, the event brought back interactions and business opportunities for many. With endless innovations, it is quite clear that the cosmetics industry is keeping up the pace with ever-changing environmental concerns, customer satisfaction, and a faster market. in-cosmetics Global will return next year from April 16-18 in Paris. See you all then!
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