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Active Ingredients in Lipsticks and Anhydrous Products - Part 2

SpecialChem / Nick Morante – Jan 19, 2007

So you still can't find oil soluble active ingredients to put into a lipstick? That's a shame. I find it hard to believe, but who am I to call anyone a liar? So let me try and help a little by using some simple chemistry. I once had a project where I had to develop a crystal clear anhydrous gel lip gloss and color it and maintain the clarity. How do you do this? Adding color to a lip product is easy but still keep it crystal clear? Sure, use dyes! But the oil soluble dyes available for use in anhydrous cosmetics are not acceptable for use in lip products. Acceptable lip colorants are either lakes or pigments and will quickly opacify the nice crystal clear products. What also helped was that the product was put together using a cold process, in other words, no heat just blending with a propeller and then a paddle mixer. That made it so easy.The only thing to do is add a water soluble dye such as FD&C Yellow 5 or 6, FD&C Blue 1 or D&C Red 33. This is a wonderful set of starting colorants to develop a pallet for a clear lip gloss line but they are all water soluble.

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