TAGS: Skin Care
Sytheon researchers and collaborators unlock further potential of Synoxyl® AZ (acetyl zingerone). Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) degrades rapidly under oxidative stress but can be stabilized by acetyl zingerone to enhance collagen production and antioxidant effects.
Poor Stability of Vitamin C
The topical delivery of Vitamin C holds longstanding challenges due to its poor stability and dermal penetration. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC, VitaSynol® C), a lipid-soluble Vitamin C precursor esterified with branched chain fatty acid (2-hexyldecanoic acid), is reported to have an improved stability and ability to penetrate the lipophilic stratum corneum. This essentially makes THDC a prodrug that facilitates delivery to the dermis where it may then undergo intracellular enzymatic conversion to release Vitamin C.
As a result, THDC has garnered widespread interest and use within the cosmetics industry even though the molecule comprises only 15.5% Vitamin C, which means that in order to deliver 1% Vitamin C to skin at least 6.5% THDC would be required in a formulation assuming 100% conversion to Vitamin C.
Synoxyl® AZ Stabilizes Vitamin C Precursor THDC
The study revealed that THDC, itself, is a poor antioxidant and undergoes rapid degradation when exposed to singlet oxygen, a well-recognized mediator of oxidative stress within skin. The researchers observed that THDC degradation by singlet oxygen could be prevented by combining it with Synoxyl® AZ as a stabilizing antioxidant. Also, while THDC lacked ability to improve viability of HaCaT Keratinocytes exposed to oxidative stress (H2O2), combining THDC with AZ bestowed complete protection.
The combination of THDC and AZ also increased expression of skin-friendly genes associated with phospholipid homeostasis and keratinocyte differentiation, along with repression of MMP1 and MMP7 expression, inhibition of MMP enzyme activity and increased production of collagen proteins by dermal fibroblasts.
These results support a synergistic mechanism by which AZ can stabilize THDC to facilitate and improve delivery of Vitamin C into the dermis and otherwise buffer against aberrant activation of genes associated with skin dysfunction and breakdown caused by THDC alone. This provides a step towards reaching the full potential of ascorbate as an active ingredient in topical preparations.
Source: Sytheon