Industry News

in-cosmetics Global Announces Winners of 2022 Awards

Published on 2022-04-12. Edited By : SpecialChem

TAGS: Sustainability / Natural Cosmetics Skin Care Hair Care in-cosmetics

in-cosmetics Global Announces Winners of 2022 Awards in-Cosmetics Global announced the winners of its 2022 Awards. Highlighting the newest ingredient innovations, which combine pioneering science and product features in a way that demonstrates substantial benefits to manufacturers and end-users when compared to existing ingredients.

These ingredients combine innovative science and product features in a way that demonstrates substantial benefits to manufacturers and to end-users when compared to existing ingredients.

2022 Innovation Zone – Active Winners

GOLD -WASTAR™ PINK BERRY by IFF - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics. Wastar™ Pink Berry was designed as an upcycled botanical extract rich in bioflavonoids to soothe irritated scalps. By valorizing pink berry by-products left after the extraction of IFF fragrance compounds, Wastar™ Pink Berry perfectly answers the upcycling trend as it combines sustainable sourcing in Madagascar and a strong efficacy while limiting its manufacturing impact on the environment.
SILVER - Vitamin B12 cryst by DSM Nutritional Products Europe. Vitamin B12 is a naturally-derived colorant skin care ingredient that relieves sensitive skin with healthy-looking skin. This new grade of vitamin B12 is produced through non-GMO bacterial fermentation, has a natural origin index of 68.7%, and is Halal approved and vegan compliant.
BRONZE - Solastemis™ by Gattefossé. Solastemis™ acts at the heart of the epidermis mechanics, by protecting the DNA of keratinocytes from UVA rays and boosting the endogenous DNA repair system. It preserves the epidermis’s stem cells, ensuring proper homeostasis for the skin’s first line of defense. It also offers a shield for the dermis by protecting key matrix proteins (collagen, elastin) from degradation.

2022 Innovation Zone – Functional Winners

GOLD -PemuPur™ START polymer by Lubrizol Life Science. A unique natural-derived polymeric emulsifier providing excellent stabilization capabilities at low use level while offering a fresh and quick break sensory.
SILVER - SENSOCEL® + by CFF GmbH & Co. KG. SENSOCEL® is a natural and environmentally friendly raw material and supports green and gentle personal care formulation. It is a vegan ingredient, free from animal testing, and GMO-free.
BRONZE -Natrathix™ bio cellulose by Ashland. Natrathix™ bio-cellulose is a nature-derived, biodegradable rheology modifier with suspension capabilities that maintains the emulsion stability of skin and sun care formulations with a desirable skin feel. Developed through market-leading expertise in sustainably sourced cellulosic, natrathix™ bio-cellulose enables the creation of more natural skincare creams, lotions, and gels, including organic and inorganic sunscreen formulations.

Innovation Zone – Active Shortlist

ADENOSILANE- by EXSYMOL. It is a solution for maintaining smooth skin like a baby's while recreating a favorable cellular environment for a "young" dermis. It offers an anti-aging solution to tighten the pore from the inside and revitalize the sheath around the pore to maintain its grip and prevent its loosening.
AQUABOOST NATCO - by Expressions Parfumées
Iselight - by Chemyunion. An active ingredient for lightening age blemishes that promotes the homeostasis of the cellular detoxification system, autophagy, and proteasome activity, capable of eliminating toxins and dysfunctional cellular biological components. Iselight is a plant-based extract composed of Myrothamnus flabellifolia, the traditional African-medicine “resurrection plant”, and Coffea arabica, an important source of antioxidants.
Patchoul’up™ - by Givaudan Active Beauty. It is a 100% upcycled active ingredient able to rebalance sebum production, eliminate dry flakes and normalize the scalp microbiome for overall wellbeing.
Restart PRO - by Chemyunion. An active ingredient with cross-linking action based on the synergistic association of unsaturated dicarboxylic acid (itaconic acid), amino acid (arginine), pro-vitamin B5 (D-panthenol), and polysaccharides extracted from linseed and chia seeds, acting through repair and protection mechanisms and proactive treatment of chemically damaged hair.
Skin'calm- by BERKEM. It is made from Robinia false acacia and offers benefits that give a soothing effect, balance the skin, and have anti-blemish properties.
Solastemis – by Gattefossé. Solastemis™ acts at the heart of the epidermis mechanics, by protecting the DNA of keratinocytes from UVA rays and boosting the endogenous DNA repair system. It preserves the epidermis’s stem cells, ensuring proper homeostasis for the skin’s first line of defense. It also offers a shield for the dermis by protecting key matrix proteins (collagen, elastin) from degradation.
SPHINOX® Defenda - by Evonik Operations GmbH. SPHINOX® Defenda is a protective agent. It is an innovative bioactive sphingolipid, a unique derivative of the naturally occurring phytosphingosine which offers various skin defense and protection benefits. It accelerates skin regeneration due to DNA protection and re-balances skin tone after summer stress. It provides anti-oxidative properties, daylight defense on a cellular (DNA) level, and fights environmental aggressions.
Suga®Det LSDG - by Colonial Chemical, Inc. Suga®Det LSDG is a liquid blend of a mild, high foam sulfosuccinate and a mild, high foam alkyl poly glucoside. The sulfosuccinate portion is normally supplied as a semisolid paste, so this blend is especially useful for formulators incorporating this potentially tricky to dispense product or those interested in reducing the carbon footprint of their manufacturing by designing cold-mix formulations.
SymHair® Thermo - by Symrise AG. It takes hair care innovation to the next level with its natural complex against thermal heat. The cosmetic active creates a film that protects the hair against heat damage. It also improves the long-lasting styling, even in high humidity environments.
Telessence Breeztel™ - by LipoTrue
Telophi™ biotech ingredient - by Lubrizol. It is an ingredient that restores facial harmony by improving the symmetry of facial features like luminosity and facial contour as well as increasing firmness and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
Vitamin B12 cryst – by DSM Nutritional Products Europe. Vitamin B12 is a naturally derived colorant skin care ingredient that relieves sensitive skin with healthy-looking skin. This new grade of vitamin B12 is produced through non-GMO bacterial fermentation, has a natural origin index of 68.7%, and is Halal approved and vegan compliant.
WASTAR™ PINK BERRY by IFF - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics. Wastar™ Pink Berry was designed as an upcycled botanical extract rich in bioflavonoids to soothe irritated scalps. By valorizing pink berry by-products left after the extraction of IFF fragrance compounds, Wastar™ Pink Berry perfectly answers the upcycling trend as it combines sustainable sourcing in Madagascar and a strong efficacy while limiting its manufacturing impact on the environment.

Innovation Zone – Functional Shortlist

DeeperCaps™️ - by Tagra Biotechnologies. DeeperCapsᵀᴹ is encapsulated pigments dedicated to dark skin tones. The sophisticated double-layer microcapsule structure, when the capsules are broken, the pigments are released and adhere effortlessly to the skin to give great coverage, with a natural perfect color match but without white residue. The cellulose-based polymer shells are flexible, durable, and break only with mechanical application.
DOWSIL™ 979 Emulsion – by DOW
EstoGel® Green – by PolymerExpert. EstoGel® Green is a new oil gelling agent, of 100% natural origin and COSMOS approved. It is a rheology modifier with suspensive and rheofludifying properties that enables the creation of non-brittle, transparent and sprayable gels with a very pleasant sensory touch.
Hydrolite® 7- by Symrise. Hydrolite® 7 green leads a revolutionary new generation of green multifunctional ingredients. The unique seven-carbon alkane diol comes from 100% bio-based sources, derived from sustainably sourced castor bean oil. The one-of-a-kind multifunctional is a clear, colorless neat ingredient that can go into a variety of traditional or natural/green cosmetic formulations and works with all skin types.
MICROMICA MK-100K-C - NAGASE Personal Care. Micromica MK-100K-C is a new functional base powder developed from upcycling resources. It is produced with an innovative technology utilizing potassium fluorosilicate, a by-product of fertilizer to enhance the properties and qualities of conventional base powders.
natrathix™ bio cellulose - by Ashland. natrathix™ bio-cellulose is a nature-derived, biodegradable rheology modifier with suspension capabilities that maintains the emulsion stability of skin and sun care formulations with a desirable skin feel. Developed through market-leading expertise in sustainably sourced cellulosic, natrathix™ bio-cellulose enables the creation of more natural skincare creams, lotions, and gels, including organic and inorganic sunscreen formulations.
PemuPur™ START polymer – by Lubrizol Life Science. A unique natural-derived polymeric emulsifier providing excellent stabilization capabilities at low use level while offering a fresh and quick break sensory.
PERMEACELL - Cellicon Lab Inc. PermeaCell is based on the peptide, platform biotechnology that enables the delivery of cargos to the dermis for topical therapeutics. It aims to unlock the potential of topical therapeutics with a revolutionary delivery effect.
Reflecks™ MD Midnight - by Sun Chemical. This vegan ingredient offers sparkling to glittering appearance. These metallic-like effect pigments based on calcium sodium borosilicate, utilize innovative multilayer technology that delivers intense chroma, color travel, and sparkle. With a new patent-pending process, the absorption colorant is embedded within the coating, aiding in the easier and faster formulation as well as benefitting the end customer by minimally staining the skin.
RUBLALEAF™ KCX-5000 - by NAGASE Personal Care. Rublaleaf™ KCX-5000 is a natural, sustainable sensory enhancer designed to provide qualities and physical effects similar to traditional microplastic beads (MPBs). Rublaleaf™ KCX-5000 was developed with unique technology to form cellulose into spherical beads. It offers 3 main characteristics and benefits: smooth, silky skin feeling with great spreadability, high naturalness (ISO16128: 100%), and biodegradable (>70% from OECD 301F test).
SENSOCEL® + - by CFF GmbH & Co. KG. SENSOCEL® is a natural and environmentally friendly raw material and supports green and gentle personal care formulation. It is a vegan ingredient, free from animal testing, and GMO-free.
TEGOSOFT® LO MB – by Evonik Operations GmbH

Judging Panel for the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award 2022

Armelle Berthier, R&D project manager, Yves Rocher
Dr. Barbara Brockway, scientific advisor, personal care industry and trustee, fellow & hon. member, and past president of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS)
Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda, Ph.D. CChem FRSC, independent consultant in Cosmetic Chemistry
Hugo Tanner, innovation raw material manager, L'OREAL
Lorna Radford, MD, Enkos Developments
Luis Allo, director of external innovation, Johnson & Johnson
Muriel Pujos, innovation ingredients director, Innovation & Technologies Department, R&D Monaco, COTY
Rouah Al-Wakeel, founder, With Hope, Cosmetic Chemist, Formula Botanica
Thierry Oddos, director R&D, Johnson & Johnson
Wolfgang Naehr, senior manager formula innovation, Global Product Development, La Prairie Group AG
Awarding Ingredients that Make a Difference
The Green Ingredient Award (in partnership with Ecovia Intelligence) is given to an ingredient that makes a significant environmental/social difference in the area of sustainability. The nominated ingredients should have been launched over two years ago and have current applications in cosmetic products. Applicants have to prove the environmental and social difference the ingredient makes in terms of sustainability.

2022 Green Ingredient Winners

GOLD - Biopolymer Hydal PHA – polyhydroxybutyrate by Nafigate Corporation. Hydal PHA is an upcycling ingredient and biopolymer that is produced biotechnologically based on green chemistry and zero-waste manufacturing. The specific form of the biopolymer is P3HB. It is a new functional ingredient that is biocompatible, non-toxic, and fully biodegradable. It forms the basis for new formulations as a polymeric matrix.
SILVER - MelanoGray™ - by Mibelle Biochemistry. MelanoGray™ is an anti-hair greying essence that is sustainably obtained by upcycling the peel paste from unique organic Chios mandarins. Thanks to its melanin stimulating and antioxidant activity, it markedly reduces the quantity of grey hair in both men and women.
BRONZE - PhytoCollagen – by Lipoid Kosmetik AG. PhytoCollagen is an all-natural, COSMOS-certified, plant-based alternative to animal collagen with similar cosmetic benefits. The powerful anti-aging and moisturizing properties in combination with the vegan and sustainable source make it the perfect collagen alternative for the modern, conscious cosmetic consumer.

Green Ingredient Shortlist

Alpin Heilmoor Extract (AHE) – by Premium Organic. AHE is a 100 % natural extract of Heilmoor, that transforms centuries of knowledge into a dark micronized powder for skin, oral, dental, and hair. ALPIN HEILMOOR EXTRACT (AHE) is a novel bioactive ingredient.
Bicoalgae O3 – by Bicosme
Biopolymer Hydal PHA – polyhydroxybutyrate – by Nafigate Corporation
Chromazone™ - by Normactive. With high affinity to keratin, CHROMAZONE™ retains color by forming a film layer on the hair surface. Liposome-based formulation of CHROMAZONE™ carries pomegranate pericarp extract encapsulated in liposome spheres through the cuticle and releases its high antioxidant content overtime at the cortex.
Ethicskin™ - by Provital. Ethicskin™ is a multifunctional active developed and produced around an internationally recognized eco-ethical initiative in Querétaro, Mexico. It represents a step forward towards a fair world and a sustainable future and provides an inclusive pathway to skin homeostasis and preventive aging.
Granpowder BBP-700 – by Grant Industries
MelanoGray™ - by Mibelle Biochemistry. MelanoGray™ is an anti-hair greying essence that is sustainably obtained by upcycling the peel paste from unique organic Chios mandarins. Thanks to its melanin stimulating and antioxidant activity, it markedly reduces the quantity of grey hair in both men and women.
PhytoCollagen – by Lipoid Kosmetik AG. PhytoCollagen is an all-natural, COSMOS-certified, plant-based alternative to animal collagen with similar cosmetic benefits. The powerful anti-aging and moisturizing properties in combination with the vegan and sustainable source make it the perfect collagen alternative for the modern, conscious cosmetic consumer.
Plukenetia huayllabambana Seed Oil – by CloudForest Peru
Pyr'O – by Biolie. Pyr'O is an organic pear extract to replace the water in cosmetic formulations.
Resulook™ advanced botanical ingredient – by Lipotec Active Ingredients. Resulook™ is a botanical extract from the Myrothamnus flabellifolius resurrection plant intended to revive the appearance of the eyes by improving hair nourishment and anchorage, to promote growth and density of eyelashes and eyebrows. Naturality according to ISO16128, 100% natural origin content.

Judging Panel for the Green Ingredient Award 2022

Amarjit Sahota, founder, Ecovia Intelligence
Tom Hornshøj-Møller, technical consultant and ex-R&D manager, Urtekram
Robin Parker, technical director, Acheson & Acheson
Jean-Florent Campion, Research & Innovation, L’Oreal
Judi Beerling, technical research manager, Ecovia Intelligence / Pertech Associates

Recognizing Newest Exhibitors

This award is given to a first or second-year exhibitor. They must show a range of offerings, innovations, commodities, and how solutions orientated the product range is.

The 2022 winner is Tagra Biotechnologies

Judging panel for the Rising Star Award 2022

Dr. Barbara Brockway, Scientific Advisor, Personal Care industry and Trustee, Fellow & Hon. Member, and Past President of the Society Of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS)
Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda, Ph.D. CChem FRSC, Independent Consultant in Cosmetic Chemistry
Luis Allo, director of External Innovation, Johnson & Johnson
Muriel Pujos, innovation ingredients director, Innovation & Technologies Department, R&D Monaco, COTY.

Recognizing the Best in Sensory Innovation

The Sensory Award celebrates the most innovative developments in sensory and texture displayed on the show's Sensory Bar. All entries displayed in the Sensory Bar are automatically entered in the Sensory Award and judged at the event by a panel of experts.

Sensory Bar Award Winners 2022

Gold - All-in-one (Rice)ing Balm by SABO S.p.A
Silver - Texturising Gel-in-Oil – Natural BBB Beauty Balm Base by Natura-Tec. NATURAL BBB - Beauty Base Balm is a 100% natural derived base, Cosmos approved, Palm free, and vegan compliant. This multifunctional balm has been developed to facilitate the formulation work and improve the cost effectiveness of the finished product.
Bronze - IN and OUT Gummies by Azelis. One formulation is a transforming texture gummy that can be melted to form a light gel moisturizing face mask, and the second an edible fruit supplement for inner beauty.

Judging panel for the Sensory Bar Award 2022

Sarah Sebban, innovation lab manager, Yves Rocher
Yoann Le Tensorer, senior innovation portfolio manager, Coty
Philip Youn, Director, raw material sourcing, L’Oreal
Nelly Girad, formulation project manager, NUXE
Maria Buxo, R&D formulation manager, ISDIN
Armelle Berthier, R&D project manager, Yves Rocher
Laura Mackenzie, formulation manager, Unilever
Lise Sorel, formulator experienced applied research skincare & sustainability, Shisedio
Ludovic Chabreyroux, formulation laboratory manager, Pierre Fabre

Spotlighting the Best in Color Cosmetics

The Make-Up Award is given for the most innovative developments in color cosmetics and make-up. All entries displayed at the Make-Up Bar are automatically entered into the Make-Up Award and judged at the event by a panel of cosmetics experts.

Make-Up Bar Award Winners 2022

Gold - Naturality & sustainability with high-performance sensoriality by Daito Kasei Europe
Silver - Microplastic Bead (MPBs) Free – natural, eco-cellulose beads for your makeup development - Nagase Personal Care
Bronze - A natural water foundation with high coverage by Arkema