New, natural raw materials, especially actives, are being launched all the time. Many of these ‘natural’ actives are extracts of plants that have been around for thousands of years.
So how and why do new launches happen? And how is sustainability maintained?
Here's something interesting to draw your attention in natural actives! Explore how new active materials are identified, checked, tested and then harvested in sustainable manners to keep up with consumer demands for the next best natural materials available!
We would like to acknowledge Belinda Carli for providing technical information needed to develop this article.
First, let's begin with what we already have...
Discovering ‘New’ from Old
Many of the plant discoveries that become new material launches are from plants that have been around for thousands of years.
Extracts of plants can have amazing benefits to the skin and health.
The phytonutrient compounds of various plants have long been known for their medicinal and topical benefits - but how do researchers keep coming out with new discoveries?
Let's take a look at the key research angles through the table below:
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Plant / Animal Type |
Description |
Example |
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Plants that can survive extreme conditions
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If a plant can survive extreme stress, heat, cold or periods without water and then it normally contains certain constituents that are able to tolerate highly adverse conditions.
If these constituents are isolated or extracted, then they may be able to provide the same benefits when applied topically.
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Ciste’M® (BASF) is an extract of rockrose adapted to arid climate. It rescues urban skin from the effects of UVB exposure and prevents the deleterious effects of blue light.
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ACTISMART™ yuzu (Lipotec) demonstrates the health benefits of yuzu (cold-resistant citrus trees) bath. It reinforces barrier function and protects the, especially for the prevention of irritation and dehydration due to cold and dry weather.
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Alpine Rose Active (Mibelle Biochemistry) which grows in the very adverse conditions of the Alps, but exhibits oxidative protection over the plant, with similar benefits to the skin.
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Plants that exhibit healing benefits
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Where a plant has been used traditionally for a medicinal or therapeutic benefit, it may contain certain substances that provide cosmetic benefits too.
For example, plants that have traditionally been used to heal burns or wounds are normally collagen stimulating, which means they may be collagen stimulating for aging skin as well. |
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ACTISMART™ mistletoe (Lipotec) provides specific skin care derived from the benefits of Mistletoe, a druidic sacred plant for skin repair.
The branches of plant are well appreciated for their medicinal properties and miraculous powers, believed to offer protection, heal wounds and cure illnesses.
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Further, Bulbine Frutescens has traditionally been used externally for a range of medical conditions including cuts, grazes, burns, blisters and sunburn because of its collagen modulating effects.
This material has then had efficacy testing and cosmeceutical development work conducted on it to show collagen balancing for all age groups with proven anti-aging benefits in the cosmeceutical material, Liftonin-Xpert (Rahn AG).
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Nature with interesting impacts on its surrounding environment
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Some plants or even insects may have an interesting effect on their surrounding environment.
This can lead to investigations about what those effects may translate to in other environments, including the skin. |
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Royalactin, a protein in Royal Jelly, has been identified as the agent responsible for the epigenetic programming of Queen Bees.
This discovery then led to the development of a biologically active peptide that mimics this material – RoyalEpigen P5 (Mibelle Biochemistry) – which impacts the epigenetic vitality of aging skin.
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Peptides discovered in animal or plant sources with efficacy in human cell processes
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In this case, the bio-mimicry is not to replace a normal human process but instead uses the discovery of an animal or plant substance that is of benefit to humans. |
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Synchrolife™ (Croda) is a peptide-based active which delivers neuro-beauty benefits. It counteracts the harmful effects of digital pollution that generate stressing signs of fatigue and premature aging.
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SensAmone P5 (Mibelle Biochemistry) is based on a protein from the venom of the leathery sea anemone that acts as an inhibitor of a pain receptor; and when reproduced synthetically, actually performs better than the natural source!
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And then, of course, research may be conducted to find if a plant does not provide anticipated cosmetic benefits at all; but the above ‘characteristics’ of a plant and its history of use can be the start of new and amazing discoveries. In any case, it certainly starts the research process.
» Continue Reading to Understand How to Take Discoveries to the Next Level, Commercializing the Active & More!