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Lisptick formulations: The fight for wear

SpecialChem / May 31, 2006

A lipstick is usually an anhydrous formulation with oils, waxes and dispersed pigments. There is no reason why this kind of mixture should remain on the lips a long time after application. The lipstick formulators' dream is to achieve a lipstick formulation combining long wearing properties, comfort, no-transfer and shine. With the discovery of new raw materials the fight for long wearing lipstick has now been declared. Ten years ago the first long wearing formulations lasted around 4 hours, their main property was claimed to be the "no-transfer". These were formulations such as "Rouge Captif" commercialized by L'OREAL or "ColourStay" by REVLON. The concept was to replace part of the classical oils with volatile oils such as silicones (D4 or D5), in a compatible formulation. When applying lipstick to the lips, silicone evaporates leaving a waxy film on the lips; this is more efficient in retaining pigments. The make-up result doesn't transfer on surfaces but it is totally mat and comfortable. However, such formulations have been successful for a long time.

But how do we advance with this concept? How can one further improve the wear and no-transfer whilst maintaining the oil shine and the comfort of a classical lipstick?

The idea is to associate two formulations. The first one will be the colored one, with a high level of volatile oils and fixing agents for pigments. The second one will be made with oils that are incompatible with the first colored film; this formulation will provide the shine and a comfortable result. The colored film is fixed on the lips and is protected by the oily top coat which provides total no-transfer and a very long wear.

The first formulations on the market were "Lipfinity" from Max Factor, commercialised by Procter&Gamble, "Overtime Liquid Lip Colour" from the special brand for lip wear called "ColourStay" by REVLON, and "Invincible Kiss proof" from L'OREAL under the lip wear brand "Invincible".

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