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Cosmetics Ingredients
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Cosmetics Ingredients

Cosmetics Trends: Interview with Croda (in-cosmetics 2016)

SpecialChem – Apr 19, 2016

In-Cosmetics 2016 - We interviewed Karen Ryan, Croda EMEA Personal Care Marketing Director. Watch & discover what she said about trends in the industry, new developments, market driving the demand as well as the challenges ahead.


 Karen Ryan - EMEA Personal Care Marketing Director at Croda  

What Are the Biggest Trends in Personal Care?

Within skin care the Customization trend has been gaining momentum for the past few years. This is a trend that is driven by the millennial generation who are seeking personalization and interactivity within products and services. Up till now launches into customized skin care have been predominantly in the area of beauty boosters and active shots.  But now we see this trend evolving further still with customization not only applying to skin benefits, but also the sensory experience and formulation textures. It is interesting to note that Korea have recently legalized customized cosmetics and as one of the most innovative markets I’m sure we will all be waiting to see where they take this trend.

Pollution Protection is another trend that is providing opportunities within the industry. This is driven by the Wellbeing macro trend and the real problems people face in light of global warming and increased urbanization. At In Cosmetics our Sederma actives business is launching a new eco-designed active, CitystemTM, that fights both the visible and invisible signs of pollution damage and we are really excited to be launching this as the pollution protection wave hits the industry.

Another trend worthy of mention is the Instant Gratification trend. This is very much technology driven with the internet and the speed of which information and opinions can travel the globe are influencing consumer behavior and their expectations. Consumers expect instant access to products and services and they want instant benefits and as a result our customers are asking us for more and more ingredients that offer instant, and consumer perceivable effects. To respond to this Croda has launched, ProlevisTM. This is a new vegetable derived biopolymer that visibly reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in an instant.

Do You Expect to See any New Developments in the Coming Year?

One area where I think we will see more innovation than ever before is in novel texture formulations, inspired primarily by what we see coming out of Asia.

For example, the Water Trend, driven by Japan, and Korea is really inspiring the skin care sector. This trend is all about novel formulations with a weightless feel and a quick-break watery texture and Croda have developed a whole new range of skin care formulations that are inspired by this trend.  

And it is these kinds of formulations that our customers have been really responsive to and they continue seek more and more novel formats with transformative textures and other unique sensory aspects that can provide a point of differentiation. So this is a major area of innovation focus for us within skin care right now.

Which Market Will Drive the Demand?

Within skin care China is predicted to lead in terms of absolute growth according to Euromonitor. 

In terms of categories, then Facial Moisturizers and Anti-Agers dominate and although we are seeing a slight slowdown in growth compared to recent years, they are forecast to continue to contribute the largest absolute gains in the coming years.

One interesting category within Skin Care is Face Masks, this is the fastest growing category within Skin Care, Euromonitor forecast a 9.7% CAGR over 2014-2019. This growth is being driven by the Asia Pacific region and, having seen an upsurge in launches in Face Mask products, our labs in China, Japan, Korea and Singapore, are all formulating to respond to the innovation within this category.

What Will Be the Greatest Challenges?

Regulations will continue to be a challenge, especially with regards China and REACh which of course impact the global market, not just China and Europe.

As a result of these more stringent regulations our customers are seeking multifunctional ingredients that allow them to deliver multiple claims across multiple applications, and they are looking for flexible chassis ingredients that allow them to develop innovative formulations using only a handful of core building block ingredients.

Formulation cost will also continue to be a challenge with the global economic situation creating a demand for premium quality formulations at mass market prices. At Croda, we have recently developed a range of formulations which embrace this concept, called Beauty In Simplicity. The formulations are cost effective but with a premium skin feel and sophisticated textures despite only containing a minimal number of ingredients. So they really do prove that, in some cases, less can be more.

1 Comments on "Cosmetics Trends: Interview with Croda (in-cosmetics 2016)"
Sandra M Apr 22, 2016
Very informative.

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