The material selection platform
Cosmetics Ingredients
The material selection platform
Cosmetics Ingredients

"Green chemistry": a new way to fight against age

SpecialChem / Oct 25, 2006

The population is getting older and all available strategies to retain youth are proposed, particularly on the cosmetic market. Following consumers' insistent demands - the skin care market is showing an explosion of anti-aging products.

Let's start with a rapid review of skin degeneration with age: As described in the book "La peau, une enveloppe de vie" by Claude BOUILLON (Ed. Decouvertes Gallimard- Culture et Societe), the epidermis becomes thinner with age. At the same time, the stratum corneum is less hydrated; it becomes thick and irregular, while the skin tone becomes dull. This is due to the reduction of the division of keratinocytes combined with a diminution of desquamation. The Langerhans cells reduce in number and activity along with a reduction of immunity defences. More deeply, the number of active melanocytes reduces even if the number of melanosomes increases. This is the apparition of dark spots on the skin.

The junction between dermis and epidermis becomes thinner and nutritive and energetic exchanges decrease. The cicatrisation process is slower and less efficient. The dermis weakens: fibroblasts deteriorate and collagen and elastin synthesis are slower. The dermis becomes thinner, less hydrated and less vascular. In the subcutis (hypodermis), the adipose tissue reduces and in addition, the skin "collapses".

But what do the latest skin care products propose to fight against these signs of age? As shown in the latest skin care product launches, cosmetic companies communicate on active ingredients more and more inspired from the vegetal area, because "Green Mother Nature" is intelligent and hopefully healthy for humans.

In September Lancôme launched the "Absolue Premium Bx" range for women over 50. It contains a new patented active ingredient "Pro-xylane", a glycosaminoglycan essential for the skin density and naturally present in the extra cellular matrix that travel the dermis, junction dermis-epidermis and epidermis. This xylose reduces with age and L'Oreal laboratories have mimed the xylose structure of the skin using a vegetal xylose discovered in beech trees.

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