She has a singing accent from the south of France and a smile in her voice... Ladies and gentleman, today I have the great pleasure to exchange with Sabine VIC, expert in custom cosmetic formulation.
Her driving forces? Helping clients to find solutions or to explore new territories in formulation. Sabine kindly accepted my interview and I wanted to share it with you. From Biotherm to Yves Saint Laurent, Elizabeth Arden, LVMH brands and Clarins, Sabine now offers her expertise on freelance. I have a lot of fun today to share her opinion on two current topics in the world of cosmetics: silicones and clean beauty.
Silicones in cosmetics: "I love you, neither do I"
Stephanie: Sabine, you have been a pioneer in the use of silicones in cosmetics. Could you share with us your current opinion on their use?
Sabine: Personally, I love silicones. Their sensorial and sensual touch, incredible performances, stability in formulas and safety have made silicones the magic ingredients we have been using in cosmetics for 30 years.
I started my cosmetic career in 1990 by studying these famous silicone oils, which came directly from the electronics industry. At that time, we didn't really know how to incorporate them in cosmetics.
So I am proud to have
co-formulated the first commercially marketed product containing silicones, it was a Biotherm after-sun body milk that was a hybrid emulsion oil and silicone in water.
The
silicones are inert, non-occlusive, stable and bring an incomparable slippery touch thanks to their chemical structure of Si-O chains that roll on each other like balls.
They are used for both skin and hair cosmetics, especially to untangle and sheath the most rebellious hair.
In makeup, almost all of our long lasting and non-transfer foundations are silicone-based emulsions in water, not to mention sun products where they bring a uniform film as well as water-resistance.
But then you may ask why are they so unloved…
As early as in 2009, we have begun to understand that silicones would accumulate in nature, and the Canadian government sounded the alarm on the use of
cyclomethicone D5. Since then there is a great controversy about silicones with ups and downs, for and against, but what we cannot ignore is that these molecules have been invented by man and that unfortunately nature does not manage well to degrade them... Precisely their great stability (which is a strength for their use in cosmetics) becomes a weakness for the environment.
They are certainly from the sand and will become sand again but in how many years? In order to resurrect them, we will have to invent an enzyme, a “siliconase”, that can make them easily biodegradable.
In the meantime, I'm afraid this passionate relationship will continue... Today, I believe that we, cosmetics professionals, have a responsibility to
offer ethical and sustainable cosmetics. Therefore, I now choose alternatives to offer sensory but also environmentally friendly formulas. Our industry is constantly evolving and our current knowledge pushes us to change certain behaviors. Therefore, I was certainly a pioneer in the use of silicones, I now choose not to integrate them into the new formulas I create.
Green or clean beauty? Rather "Conscious Beauty"!
Stephanie: I feel your commitment in what you say. What if I tell you Clean beauty now? What could you say about that?
Sabine:
Clean Beauty means cosmetics without controversial ingredients - No Nasties.
This movement comes from the US because the U.S. regulations are less demanding than ours in Europe.
As a result, American influencers and celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow (who supports healthier living especially in nutrition - see her website Goop) have naturally also taken care of cosmetics by denouncing "Nasties" ingredients that should be avoided in cosmetics.
In France, this Clean Beauty really started in 2015 with the publication of an article in Que Choisir that described the list of 13 ingredients to avoid in cosmetics.
And we know what it's like when the media takes over a subject, it goes in all directions!
Despite the fact that these famous ingredients are well regulated with doses and conditions of use, this does not prevent consumers from being afraid of them.
Therefore, all the major brands have tackled to "clean" their products and their ingredient listings by substituting the “nasties”...
and green and clean beauty reformulation projects have multiplied in formulation labs.
But each company goes there with its own black list of forbidden raw materials and to substitute. There is obviously no common list.
Of course everyone already complied with European regulations, but here we go much further by taking into account the media arguments.
For my part, either green or clean, I prefer talking about Conscious Beauty.
Stephanie: What exactly do you mean by this concept of "Conscious Beauty"?"
Sabine: Conscious Beauty for me is the
combination of Green, Clean Beauty and transparency, explaining the use of each raw material and its function in the formula.
I develop formulas by being aware of the choice of each raw material and the right manufacturing process in accordance with ethical values and respect for the environment.
In practical terms, here's how I put it:
-
I check that the raw material is completely safe at the dose used (and natural does not necessarily mean safe (let's face it!)
-
I'll make sure of its strict necessity in the formula
-
I prefer to select raw materials that are multi-functionals and can bring several benefits at once.
-
I also include the notion of traceability of their origins and the fact that their production is beneficial to local communities.
-
I prefer the use of up-cycled ingredients from waste of other industries, for example cellulose powder which is made from waste from the paper industry or active ingredients based on "ugly" or damaged fruits and vegetables of the food industry.
So, I get minimalist but equally effective formulas for which I can easily explain the role of each ingredient in complete transparency.
The benefits must be as much for our skin as for our planet.
Communication is, in my opinion, the key to success because it allows us to explain, to reassure and to unite.
I hope you will be as passionate about this exchange as I am. Sabine's conclusion could have been mine. In my opinion, science and marketing must work hand in hand to deliver a promise kept to consumers.
I invite you to find Sabine on LinkedIn to follow her news.
About Amsa Conseil
Amsa Conseil is a tailor-made outsourced marketing support.
As a marketing consulting company, Amsa Conseil allows cosmetics brand owners to focus on the essential: their core expertise.
Created in 2016 the young company offers a transversal marketing vision, combining knowledge of the cosmetics sector and digital expertise, to help its clients to create a differentiating relationship with their audience.
Both in B2B and B2C, Amsa is offering its strategic and operational expertise in digital marketing, in particular, in the three following areas: content strategy, social medias and web project management.
About Sabine VIC - FORMULE&SENS
Sabine VIC is an expert in custom cosmetics formulation with 30 years of experience in the cosmetics industry. Via her company, FORMULE&SENS, she provides technical advice and support in formulation of skincare and makeup products.