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The material selection platform
Cosmetics Ingredients
The material selection platform
Cosmetics Ingredients

Ingredients for Anti-aging Cosmetics

The scope of anti aging ingredients has widened! No one wants to look old when the cosmetics and personal care industry has offered several advanced solutions for the aging skin.

Read on to understand the main challenges associated while formulating anti-aging formulations and choose the best anti-aging ingredients as well as other much needed ingredients & their performance characteristics while developing anti-aging formulations.

Overview

Biological Mechanisms Affected by Skin Aging

Biological Mechanisms Affected by Skin Aging

Skin aging is a complex biological process, which results in a decline in biochemical and physiological function, leading to:

  • Loss of skin luminosity and smoothness
  • Lack of skin tone homogeneity
  • Dark circles
  • Loss of firmness
  • Deep wrinkles
  • Dark spots
  • Skin dryness
  • Sagging skin
  • Loss of elasticity

When developing an anti-aging formulation, the formulator faces a very complex task. In addition to proper vehicle selection, emulsifying systems and creating a pleasing and appropriate texture, he has to select the proper active ingredients and comply with stability, cost constraints and regulatory constraints.

Many biological mechanisms are affected by skin aging and suppliers offer a plethora of ingredients. So how to proceed?

  1. An approach can be to first define carefully the skin benefits that are desired together with selecting a desired texture.
  2. Once they are defined, one needs to investigate the most efficient active ingredients to achieve the desired effect through thorough literature search.

Let's discuss, in detail, different type of ingredients and their role while formulating anti-aging products...


Essential Ingredients for Anti aging Cosmetics

Essential Ingredients for Anti aging Cosmetics

The choice of texture is very important, reverse emulsion, direct emulsion, triple emulsion, gel, and oils will have an impact on the efficacy of the product.

To ease the selection of ingredients and systems, we have gathered here a list of ingredients that could be used in a formulation for First Signs of Aging: Moisturizer SPF 15 to get even skin tone and minimize lines.

The list of ingredients described in the matrix is non exhaustive. To address the first signs of aging, bringing moisture, correcting lines and improving the skin tone homogeneity, these categories of ingredients are essential.

Essential ingredients
UV Protection
Antioxidant
  • Vitamin C
  • Vitamin E
  • Polyphenols, Green tea, Grape seed, Sylimarin 
  • Flavonoids Sylbin Resveratrol Ginko Biloba
Anti-inflammatory
Melanin inhibition
  • Niacinamide 
  • Ascorbyl phosphate 
  • Flavonoids 
  • Peptide
Collagen synthesis
  • Copper Peptide-Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
  • Retinol-Retinyl palmitate
  • Centelia asiatica
  • Vitamin C
Moisturizing




Contribution of Antioxidants & UV Filters in Anti aging Formulations

Contribution of Antioxidants & UV Filters in Anti aging Formulations

Environment, pollution, solar radiation and cigarette smoke generate free radicals in the skin which can be destructive with varying degrees of severity. Proteins (collagen, elastane), cellular membrane lipids and DNA can be damaged causing disorders that can cause premature aging. We therefore need to protect ourselves against them. The application of antioxidant and/or antiradical products on the skin is recommended.

These antioxidants and anti-radicals are either:

  • Molecular (e.g. vitamin C, vitamin E, polyphenols, etc.) or 
  • Enzymatic (SOD, Catalase, etc.) or 
  • In the form of trace elements (selenium, copper, zinc etc.). 

Solar radiation – particularly UVAs – received daily play a major role in the aging process, particularly in the production of free radicals. Daily treatments integrating a sunscreen are therefore strongly recommended. Sunscreens are strongly regulated and approved sunscreens differ in Europe and in the US. Broad spectrum and balanced UV A&B is required.

Antioxidants SPF Protection
Skin Tone
Improvement
Moisture Lines Attenuation   Strengths & Weaknesses
Vit C
  tick
   tick
 VitC + Vit E work in synergy
Vit E
  tick
  tick
Quercetin
  tick
  tick
 
Ellagic acid
  tick
  tick
 Solubility poor
Sylimarin
Ginkgo biloba
Milk thistle
  tick
  tick
 Low level, color
 OPC
  tick
    Solubility-stability
Resveratrol
  tick
  tick

UV Filters SPF Protection Strengths & Weaknesses
Avobenzone 3% SPF 15 Approved US + Europe
Octyl salicylate 5%
Octocrylene 2.74% With solvent
Homosalate 7%
Antioxidants & UV filters Selection Matrix


Role of Anti-inflammatory Ingredients in Anti-aging Formulations

Role of Anti-inflammatory Ingredients in Anti-aging Formulations

As the skin is aggressed (heat, UV light, chemicals…), it leads to the release of enzymes such as collagenases, elastases, hyaluronidases. These enzymes degrade the extracellular matrix leading to skin wrinkling. This calls for the addition of effective anti inflammatory ingredients in the anti-aging formulation.

Small amounts of anti inflammatory ingredients are usually effective. Some natural extracts having anti inflammatory properties can be more complex to use. These extracts could be flavonoids as their strong colors, odors, and sensitivity to oxidation may shorten product shelf life and modify preparation aesthetic properties. In order to deliver active ingredients and stabilize the formulations, encapsulation technologies make them easier to incorporate.


Anti-inflammatories SPF Protection
Skin Tone
Improvement
Moisture Lines Attenuation   Strengths & Weaknesses
Curcumin
      tick
 Solubility - Stability
Caffeine
      tick
 Solubility
Resveratrol
  tick   tick
Allantoin
      tick
Aloe vera
  tick   tick
Quercetin
      tick


Contribution of Collagen Synthesis Ingredients in Anti-aging Formulations

Contribution of Collagen Synthesis Ingredients in Anti-aging Formulations

Rebuilding the extracellular matrix via collagen synthesis together with moisturizing the epidermis is the main approach to correct first lines.

Addition or stimulation of essential NMF elements for better skin barrier, and humectant effect, improving skin hydrolipidic barrier by adding/stimulating essential lipids, normalizing intracellular water transfer via aquaporins. For Collagen enhancers, choice is among vitamin C and derivatives, peptides, soy derivatives, retinol and derivatives, centella asiatica. Finally, skin tone homogeneity a main player in facial attractiveness is directly linked to melanin.

Anti-inflammatories SPF Protection
Skin Tone
Improvement
Moisture Lines Attenuation   Strengths & Weaknesses
Vitamin C
      ticktick
 Expensive
Peptides
      ticktick
 Expensive
Retinol & Esters
         Stability/irritation
Centella asiatica, Whey protein, Soy isoflavones and saponins
      ticktick
 Natural


Contribution of Melanin Inhibitors in Anti-aging Formulations

Contribution of Melanin Inhibitors in Anti-aging Formulations

To inhibit melanin production, transport oxidation several ingredients show good activity from natural ingredients, vitamins and peptides.

Peptides are very expensive while natural flavonoids concentration is limited due to color issues. Vitamin C is most used in stabilized form and is also expensive. Resveratrol is expensive. A combination of them is often preferred.

Melanin Inhibitors SPF Protection
Skin Tone
Improvement
Moisture Lines Attenuation   Strengths & Weaknesses
Resveratrol
tick
       Stability
Niacinamide
tick
       Affordable
Ascorbic acid
tick
       Expensive
Peptides
tick
       Expensive
Licorice, mulberry, scutellaria, flavonoids
         Colored ingredients


Contribution of Moisturizing Ingredients in Anti-aging Formulations

Contribution of Moisturizing Ingredients in Anti-aging Formulations

Skin deprived of moisture is more prone to aging. Dry skin types get more wrinkles and fine lines than moisturized ones. Moisturizing ingredients in anti aging formulations help in minimizing fine lines and wrinkles. Moisturizers are often used as secret ingredients in several anti aging formulations.

Moisturizing Ingredients SPF Protection
Skin Tone
Improvement
Moisture Lines Attenuation   Strengths & Weaknesses
Sodium lactate
    tick
  Affordable
NMF like
    tick
 
Polysaccharides
    tick
 
Hyaluronic acid
    tick
  Expensive
Ceramides
    tick
 
Glycerin
    tick
   Low Cost


In our exclusive guide, get started with the selection and formulation tips related to different classes of moisturizing ingredients and learn how to best utilize them against the target performance claim, consumer perception and expectations.

Moisturizing Agents: Selection & Formulation Tips


Find Suitable Anti-aging Ingredients for Cosmetics

View a wide range of anti-aging ingredients available in the market today, analyze technical data of each product, get technical assistance or request samples.

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