TAGS: Sustainability / Natural Cosmetics
Sytheon corrects the identity of 25-year-old and most popular vitamin C Tetra Esters. While both water-soluble (sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside) and oil soluble ascorbyl esters are widely used in cosmetic and therapeutic preparations, one of the most popular forms todays is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDC, VitaSynol® C).
All About THDC & Its Stability
As an oil-soluble derivative, THDC not only improves chemical stability, but its lipophilic nature facilitates delivery into the epidermis and dermis where it undergoes intracellular enzymatic conversion to free ascorbic acid (AA). Importantly, free AA must be released by THDC before its skin benefits can be realized. Thus, THDC is a precursor of AA.
While for 25 years THDC (CAS # 183476-82-6) and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitates (CAS #183476-6) were construed as being equivalent structures, in fact, they represent two different chemistries with different CAS#s. While both are esters of ascorbic acid, THDC comes from reaction with 2-hexyldecanoic acid whereas Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitates derives from reaction with isopalmitic acid. Two different fatty acids that when esterified with ascorbic acid yield two unique products.
Sytheon corrected this misnomer by working in close collaboration with the Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) and the Chemical Abstract Services. It has also demonstrated that stability of THDC under an oxidant rich environment and its skin benefits can be improved by combining it with
Synoxyl® AZ (INCI: Acetyl Zingerone).
Product Range from Sytheon
Source: Sytheon