TAGS: Decorative Cosmetic
Skin Care
Kao Corporation’s Makeup Research Laboratory, Biological Science Research Laboratory, and Analytical Science Research Laboratory have developed a new makeup technology to smoothen "laugh lines" (nasolabial folds) inconspicuously with a simple application.
Nasolabial Folds Difficult to Cover
Apparent age is dependent on skin conditions, such as the presence of wrinkles, age spots, and deep etched "laugh lines" (nasolabial folds), with the latter known to often cause concerns for females aged 40 years and older. Nasolabial folds are deep as compared to other types of wrinkles around the eyes or on the forehead, with shading emphasized by overhanging sagging skin caused by gravity. Thus, they are considered difficult to cover with foundation or application of a concealer.
Kao researchers noted that a nasolabial fold can be diminished by lifting up the sagging cheek with a hand and thus focused on development of makeup technology that immediately makes nasolabial folds inconspicuous by physically elevating sagging cheek skin.
Technology Reduces Laugh Lines Visibility
Liquids containing specific polymers form a film as they dry and shrink. Kao examined whether sagging cheeks could be lifted by utilizing such shrinkage characteristics. Initially, the amount of force required to lift a sagging cheek was determined. Next, the shrinkage rate of a film while drying equivalent to the same amount of force was calculated. Since flexibility of the film when dried is important to prevent it from breaking up, screening for polymers with high rates of shrinkage and skin adhesion to the skin, as well as adequate flexibility was conducted.
The shrinkage rate was calculated based on the bend angle generated when the formulation was applied to PET film and allowed to dry. For evaluation of flexibility, dried films applied to PET films were folded onto cylinders with different diameters and the minimum diameter at which the film remained unbroken was assessed.
The results revealed a unique silicone hydrophobic polymer material that exhibited acceptable shrinkage and flexibility characteristics. Furthermore, equivalent shrinkage of the material even when applied thinly was considered essential to provide a natural finish on the skin. The shrinkage rate of this polymer was found to be high when dried quickly, thus oil with high volatility was added to complete the model formula.
Model Formula Applied to the Cheek
The model formula was applied to the cheek (above nasolabial fold) and around the mouth (below nasolabial fold) of 12 females in their 40s and 50s. Trained evaluators then compared the extent of conspicuousness of each nasolabial fold before and after application using the "nasolabial fold grades" method. The results showed that the noticeability of the nasolabial fold was improved in 11 of the 12 participants.
Next, the change of the deepest site of the nasolabial fold before and after application to bare skin in 11 of the 12 participants was measured using a VECTRA® M3. The results showed that nasolabial fold depth after applying was shallower by approximately 1 mm on average.
A makeup technology was developed that reduces the conspicuousness of nasolabial folds by non-invasive application to skin. With this new method, cheek sagging is reduced by shrinkage of a membrane adhered to the skin, resulting in the nasolabial fold becoming shallower by an average of 1 mm. This technology will be applied for development of future makeup products that make nasolabial folds inconspicuous and contribute to meet the desire to look as young as possible.
Source: Kao