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Cognis at In-Cosmetics India: well-being solutions for the Asian market

Published on 2007-11-22. Author : SpecialChem

For the modern consumer, the concepts of well-being and performance are closely linked. They are looking for a holistic product experience for the products they buy, from personal care to home care / I&I. At In-Cosmetics India in Mumbai, Cognis Care Chemicals and its active ingredients business Laboratoires Sérobiologiques exhibited a range of products and concepts designed to deliver a holistic product experience in line with the wellness trend. Among the ingredients and products on display were solubilizers, emulsifiers, surfactants, thickener, wax dispersions, emollients, polymers and active ingredients that enable manufacturers to meet new consumer demands.

Today's consumers are looking for personal care products that give them a sense of well-being, both during and after use. Cetiol® SenSoft, the so-called "happy" emollient, enables manufacturers to exactly meet the demand for a holistic sensorial product experience. Its effects have been verified using two unique testing methods. Cetiol SenSoft is highly compatible with commonly used raw materials, and offers excellent hydrolytic stability, good UV filter solubilizing power and powder-wetting properties. It is therefore suitable for a range of applications, including face, body and sun care products, as well as decorative cosmetics and deodorants.

Also featured at Cognis' booth was Cosmedia® SP, a high-performance polymer for the skin care market. Available as an easy-to-handle, pH-neutral powder, it is a highly efficient emulsifier, thickener and stabilizer. It also provides a very pleasant sensorial experience, and gives formulators precise control over how their products feel on the skin. Cosmedia SP is ideal for use in low-viscosity, light care products such as sprays and lotions, and can be applied in richer, higher-viscosity cream and gel formulations.

Also presented were two acrylic homopolymers coming in liquid form - Cosmedia® CTH (E), which is cationic, and Cosmedia® ATH, which is anionic. They are designed to enhance the performance of skin and hair care formulations, as well as improving their spreading characteristics.

Exhibited additionally was Ultragel® 300, a cationic polymer in powderform, which controls rheology in hair and skin care preparations. As well as being used in clear formulations, the polymer has also become a popular choice of thickener for creams and lotions, delivering a soft and silky skin feel.

For many formulators of shampoo and body cleansing products, viscosity adjustment is a challenge, especially with the use of sulphate-free systems. Arlypon® TT is a high performance thickening agent designed for this purpose and difficult-to-thicken systems. It synergistically thickens due to its associative and micellar composition. Surfactant systems, whether they are completely free of sulphates and betaines, low active matter systems, or blends of specific mild surfactants, are tamed by Arlypon TT. The product is pumpable, cold processable, and preservative-free.

Cognis also showcased Lamesoft® Care, a power conditioning concept offering exceptional skin and hair conditioning effects. Its micronized lipid system delivers intensive conditioning effects for hair care concepts and excellent sensory properties in body wash products. As a unique performance wax, Lamesoft Care meets consumers' performance expectations without the use of silicones. Furthermore, it provides shampoo and shower products with a luxurious and elegant pearl shine effect.

The skin whitening market has steadily grown over the past few years. To meet this demand, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS) has designed Actiwhite™ LS 9808, a tailor-made whitener with a demonstrated innovative pathway of melanin synthesis inhibition - linked to a decrease of tyrosinase activity in melanocytes and also to an inhibition of melanosome maturation - resulting in a significant whitening efficacy versus market benchmark, while ensuring a perfect skin tolerance.

Fitting with the trends towards natural well-being products, LS also showcased Marajo ScrubTM LS 9843, a 100 percent natural Amazonian native clay, rich in mineral salts, allowing gentle micro-exfoliation. It leaves the skin smooth and softens and restores its radiance, as demonstrated in a clinical test. Marajo Scrub conforms to the Ecocert standard for ecological and organic cosmetics.

Phytosoothe LS 9766, a compound of phytosterols from canola (rapeseed) and cetearyl alcohol, for soothing and beautifying both the skin and hair, was also displayed on LS's booth. Its ability to significantly reduce scalp irritations was demonstrated clinically, in a rinse-off formulation. It is also suitable for sensitive skin applications, including baby care and depilatories.

In line with market demand for safer and more "natural" cosmetic ranges, LS presented Elestab™ PB Free LS 9842, a ready-to-use hydrosoluble paraben free preservative system. Available in liquid form, it allows complete antimicrobial action spectrum ensuring perfectly protected cosmetic formulations the easy way.

In the home care and I&I market, consumers demand convenient products that offer increased cleaning power while also being fast and easy to use. Cognis presented Polyquart Ampho® 149 and Polyquart® PRO, which are high performance additives for hard surface cleaners that provide enhanced shine, streak-free cleaning, less resoiling and spotless drying. Both products are compatible with all types of surfactants and can be used in cleaner formulations at a wide pH range.

Also featured at the Cognis booth was Arlypon® VPC, a multifunctional ingredient that functions as a thickener, surfactant and solubilizer especially for highly acidic cleaner formulations. Arlypon VPC efficiently thickens cleaner formulations increasing the dwell time thus giving the acid more time to penetrate the soil and remove it. Moreover, due to its functionality and easy handling the complexity of the manufacturing process can be reduced.

Natural, renewable raw materials combined with an outstanding ecological footprint are one of the keys to achieve success in the markets. Cognis APG® surfactants (Glucopon®, Plantaren® and Plantacare® brands) are obtained from renewable plant-derived raw materials, such as coconut oil and starch. The Glucopon brands combine mildness to human skin, environmental compatibility, and pose no risk to human health, yet still offer excellent cleaning performance in laundry detergents, hard surface cleaners, and manual dish detergents alike. Cognis Plantacare and Plantaren brands also show impressive performance in foaming, cleaning, and mildness in personal care products, which make them widely accepted by formulators and ideal for mild shampoos, bath, and shower gel applications.

Ingredients such as fragrances, essential oils and vitamins also play an increasingly important role for consumers in the home and personal care industry, e.g. for products related to the wellness trend, delivering via a high level of aetheric oils a relaxing experience. However, incorporating these ingredients into formulations requires highly effective solubilizers. Cognis offers a comprehensive range of those, suitable for use in a wide variety of formulations, including both clear liquids and milky products. While Eumulgin® L and Eumulgin® HPS perform well in water and water/ethanol systems, Eumulgin® ES, Eumulgin® HF 70 are specially designed for surfactant-based systems.

Cognis Care Chemicals - a strong focus on high-growth markets

Asia-Pacific is the second biggest personal and home care market behind Western Europe. According to a recent study by Kline & Company, sales of cosmetics and toiletries in India grew by 12.6 percent in 2006. Young-Yull Kim, VP Sales & Marketing Cognis Care Chemicals Asia-Pacific comments: "Asia is one of the key markets for our future success, and the Indian market in particular is growing very rapidly. With a population of over one billion, and increasing demand from the growing middle classes, marketers are recognizing the tremendous opportunity for manufacturers of cosmetics and toiletries. The trend towards natural products over synthetic ones is as well taking pace in Asia."

About Laboratoires Sérobiologiques

Laboratoires Sérobiologiques is Cognis Care Chemicals' active ingredients business. It specializes in the development, manufacture and marketing of innovative cosmetic concepts and active ingredients.

About Cognis

Cognis is a worldwide supplier of innovative specialty chemicals and nutritional ingredients, with a particular focus on the areas of wellness and sustainability. The company employs about 7,700 people, and it operates production sites and service centers in 30 countries. Cognis has dedicated its activities to a high level of sustainability and delivers natural source raw materials and ingredients for food, nutrition and healthcare markets, and the cosmetics, detergents and cleaners industries. Another main focus is on products for a number of other industries, such as coatings and inks, lubricants, textiles, as well as agriculture and mining. The subsidiary Pulcra Chemicals offers specialized chemical products and process expertise to customers in the fiber, textile, and leather industries. Cognis also holds a 50-percent stake in the joint venture Cognis Oleochemicals, one of the world's leading manufacturers of oleochemicals.

Cognis is owned by private equity funds advised by Permira, GS Capital Partners, and SV Life Sciences. In 2006, Cognis recorded sales of 3.37 billion euros and an Adjusted EBITDA (operating result) of 394 million euros.

Source: Rexam

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