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DSM Skin Care
DSM skin care ingredients including SYN® peptides and specialty bioactives are designed to meet consumer desired benefits and help skin care formulators and brand owners take their own products to the next level in applications to address anti-aging, wrinkle repair, and more.

Rational Design Approach for skin care actives that meet consumer needs

All the benefits of DSM ingredients and the fact that they meet consumer desired performance are the result of DSM’s rational design approach. DSM’s rational design approach starts with a deep understanding of the chemistry and biology of how the skin works and results in the development of optimized potent skin care actives with standardized and highly effective mechanisms of action.

DSM rational design approach follows a general five step process that starts with the consumer:

DSM rational design


What are practical examples of DSM rational design approach?
Whether to reduce skin thinning caused by lifestyle stress, to firm and volumize the skin, to reduce wrinkles, or to improve hydration and moisturization, DSM rational design approach delivers skin care actives that meet consumer needs.

Discover practical examples and the stories behind DSM rational design approach and the resulting ingredients here:

Approach of rational design


Reduce skin thinning caused by lifestyle stress with BEL-EVEN™ bioactive ingredients
BEL-EVEN™ is designed to inhibit 11bHSD1 and block cortisone to address the impact of stress on skin

The first practical example of DSM rational design approach for skincare ingredients is the story of DSM’s BEL-EVEN™ bioactive ingredient creation.

When DSM went down the path to create a new ingredient to address the impact of stress on the skin, the first thing they did was ask the question, “How does lifestyle stress manifest itself in the skin?”

The answer? Through release of cortisol! After learning that there is a specific enzyme involved in the conversion of cortisone into cortisol, DSM then embarked on a molecular modeling approach to create a new molecule to help inhibit that enzyme.

And the result? BEL-EVEN™. A patented, new-to-the world molecule with a well-defined innovative mode of action, BEL-EVEN™ rebalances the cortisol level in skin by inhibiting the enzyme 11β-HSD1. It locally rebalances the negative, long-term effects of stress on skin. BEL-EVEN™ visibly reduces signs of a stressful lifestyle, for fuller, more supple-looking skin with improved skin elasticity and greater barrier integrity.

BEL-EVEN™ shows a visible improvement in skin wrinkles
The photos show improvement of skin wrinkles observed during a 12-week study using in vivo state-of-the-art visual assessment of crow’s feet wrinkles.

Download the BEL-EVEN™ brochure to design skin-care products that fight
against stress-induced collagen loss and skin thinning


Firming and Volumizing Skin with SYN®-COLL and SYN®-HYCAN Peptides
SYN®-COLL and SYN®-HYCAN are specifically designed to mimic TSP-1

When DSM considered the consumer end benefit desired of firming and volumizing of the skin, they first looked to the impact of collagen and hyaluronic acid. Why? Because collagen is one of the major building blocks of the extra-cellular matrix and serves as a natural structural support for the skin, giving it firmness and elasticity. And hyaluronan, or simply referred to as HA (hyaluronic acid), which occurs naturally in the body, has the principle characteristic of retaining water, which contributes significantly to maintaining a youthful, firm appearance of the skin.

Upon identifying that the production of these proteins is triggered by activation of tissue growth factor beta (TGFb), they then looked at how thrombospondin-1 (TSP-1) naturally activates TGFb and modeled it in silico. The result? SYN®-COLL and SYN®-HYCAN! These peptides are specifically designed to mimic TSP-1. In vitro testing shows increased collagen and hyaluronic acid with SYN®-COLL and SYN®-HYCAN, respectively.

SYN®-COLL significantly reduces wrinkles vs. placebo
In the below 3D imagery using the Primos® technique, before and after pictures show a visible reduction in wrinkles after 84 days of twice daily application of 2.5% SYN®-COLL in formulation.

Syn Coll reduces wrinkles



SYN®-HYCAN volumizes skin – a fast acting hyaluronic acid booster

A formulation with 2.5% SYN®-HYCAN potent active peptides for skin care applied twice daily significantly increased tension (3%), tonicity (17%) and firmness (7%) of the skin compared to D0.

The results were also significant compared to placebo. Using Primos Body® measurements, the remodeling effect of face contour was tested.

SYN®-HYCAN peptides significantly improved the double chin profile by increased skin firmness – a visible face contour remodeling!

Syn Hycan increases skin firmness

Download SYN®-HYCAN brochure
for further details on performance.

Reduce Wrinkles with SYN®-AKE peptides
SYN®-AKE is specifically designed to mimic the activity of Waglerin-1

When tasked with creating a skin care ingredient solution to reduce wrinkles, DSM experts first looked at the cause of wrinkles – facial expression muscles. Wrinkles such as forehead lines or crow’s feet are the result of facial expression muscles. And this muscle activity is controlled by nicotinic acetylcholine receptors (nAChRs) in the skin.

So, the question became, “What could help to block these receptors in the skin?”, in order to reduce further wrinkes. The answer was Waglerin-1, a known substance that blocks the nAChRs and a substance that is found in snake venom. The result? SYN®-AKE peptides. SYN®-AKE peptides are specifically designed to mimic the activity of Waglerin-1 and in vitro testing shows SYN®-AKE can block the nAChRs.

SYN®-AKE has a smoothing and anti-wrinkle effect on skin

The below data and picture shows the impact of measurement of the smoothing (Ra) and anti-wrinkle effect (Rz and Rt) of SYN®-AKE peptides (4%) measured on the crow’s feet after 28 days.

Syn Ake smoothing effect

Syn Ake smoothing effect
Download SYN®-AKE brochure
for more details on this testing


Hydration and Moisturization with PENTAVITIN® Bioactives
PENTAVITIN® was designed to mimic NMF and bind to the epidermis

Because hydration/moisturization is the result of proper water levels in the epidermis, DSM skin care ingredients experts looked to how the amount of water in the skin is controlled by natural moisturizing factors, or NMF. NMF is made up of an array of hygroscopic water-soluble substances. So in order to mimic NMF, PENTAVITIN® bioactives were created. In vivo testing shows that this 100% natural and plant derived PENTAVITIN® binds to skin and provides instant and long-term hydration.

PENTAVITIN® shows visible facial hydration in as little as three hours

Tired and dry skin comes back to life after just 28-days using 1% PENTAVITIN® bioactives. Visible facial hydration can be seen in as little as 3 hours! See even more improvements with 3%. Download PENTAVITIN® brochure now.

Pentavititn


Discover more about the applications and formulations of DSM’s SYN®-Peptides and specialty bioactives BEL-EVEN™ and PENTAVITIN® here. Visit our special feature on the skin microbiome

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