APPS is a unique vitamin C derivative successfully used in skin care (creams, lotions, serums) and offering outstanding beneficial effects: anti-aging, brightening, anti-acne

Benefit from APPS superior properties in skin care formulations

When carefully used, at only 1% concentration in the formulation (and even less), APPS offers beneficial effects to the skin: anti-aging (anti-wrinkle), brightening/lightening, anti-acne.
In one month, you can see the first visual results of the anti-wrinkle benefit.
APPS is a vitamin C derivative (APPS INCI name: Trisodium Ascorbyl 6-Palmitate 2-Phosphate). It is a pure and stabilized molecule.
Read more about APPS uniqueness and advantages

Some formulation tips for an effective use of APPS

APPS vitamin C derivative is an active ingredient exhibiting valuable and useful properties for skin care formulations. However, there are some formulation guidelines we would like to share with you if you want to get the best out of it:

  • To improve formulations stability:
    • Adjust the pH: APPS is more stable at around pH=8. It is recommended to have the pH of the final product that is slightly alkaline.
    • Formulate with dihydric alcohols: To prevent the hydrolysis of APPS in aqueous solutions, we suggest you to add dihydric alcohols to the formulations (butylene glycol, 1,2-pentandiol, 1,2-hexandiol or dipropylene glycol).
  • To keep a clear solution (and not turbid):
    • Add an appropriate quantity of 1,2-hexandiol in order to solubilize the sodium palmitate released when APPS is hydrolyzed.
  • Be careful when formulating with xantham gum products
    • Some of them have a hydrolyzing action on APPS so preliminary tests are highly recommended.

Skin care formulations examples with APPS

APPS is an active ingredient that is usually added to skin care products such as lotions, creams and serums.
You can find below some effective skin care formulations incorporating this vitamin C derivative:

bullet   Serum formulations with APPS vitamin C derivative

Serum-1 APPS at 5°C
Serum-2 APPS at 25°C
aqueous solution APPS at 40°C

Two serum-type lotions described above and an aqueous solution containing APPS were prepared. The stability of APPS was increased thanks to the addition of polyhydric alcohols.

bullet   Cream formulation incorporating APPS

Cream formulation
  1. Mix ingredients 1-17 at 85°C (Phase A).
  2. Mix ingredients 18-21 at 85°C (Phase B).
  3. Add Phase B to Phase A slowly and emulsify with a homomixer.
  4. Allow to stand under ambient condition till 60°C, then start cooling.
  5. Keep mixing till 30°C.

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