New Beauty Innovations in the Japanese Market

TAGS:  Skin Care     Decorative Cosmetics   

This article was first published in 2019 and is revised in 2020.

1. J-Beauty – A Unique Sense of Heritage
2. What’s Hit & Hot Per Category (cleansing, whitening, etc.)
3. What about J-beauty in this Covid situation

We all know Asia is on the forefront of beauty innovation. Amongst several trends, there is a lot of talk about Japanese beauty (J-beauty) making a comeback. In comparison to Korea (K-beauty), which is a comparatively young & trendy market, Japan is a mature cosmetics market, which is oriented towards high quality products. “Made in Japan” is seen as a guarantee for safe and clean ingredients and formulations.

Based on traditional know-how, technics, crafting and routine, consumers are now discovering new unique products with multi-benefits, new textures and new ways of application enhancing new senses of beauty.

J-Beauty – A Unique Sense of Heritage

With strong link to traditions and know-how, Japan is one of the only Asian country with oldest beauty cosmetics industry & brands. Additionally, it is:

• One of the only Asian beauty which is associated with some beauty «cliché» image
• A country with unique sense of perfection that created layering power of cosmetics from cleansing oil to cosmetics water

In Japan, the trends and innovation not only focus on prevention but also on emotion i.e.:

• Caring, protecting is a whole attitude from inside out
• Application way, textures provide unique sensorial emotion from voluptuous foam to silky delicate powder & fragrances
• Perfect packages are just dedicated to users including applicators
• A unique sense of colors connected to traditions & link with nature
• A way to appeal to different images of femininity from “Otona-poi” to “Kawai”

"The Japanese beauty philosophy is very close to healthcare philosophy", says Miyabi Kumagai, Shiseido Brand Manager. Japanese beauty routines believe beauty lies on a healthy skin base.

"Japanese beauty is more about taking the matter in depth with respect and basing the results on scientific research and logic", says Miyabi.


Japanese beauty products promote the alchemy of ingredient knowledge:

• From traditional & local of Sakura, Yuzu, rice …
• Reassuring power of efficacy of collagen, hyaluronic acid, Royal jelly
• New high-tech active molecules with intense & targeted delivery such as 4MSK, Retinol… for QD formulations

J-beauty is promoting a deep sense of beauty by all aspects including natural ingredients & packaging.

Now, Japan is finally highlighting its traditional values nationwide & around the world. Japanese beauty product companies are revamping traditional values of essentialism, which became so popular among international countries as a new lifestyle of Muji, Uniqlo, Marie Kondo… simple but pleasant life and hence, rediscovering traditional & local products.

What’s Hit & Hot Per Category

Sophisticated Cleansing

Cleansing is the must step in skin care regime to get beautiful & healthy skin. It is a dedicated routine - Easy and convenient resulting in a sophisticated and glamorous look. Dedicated according to your lifestyle, skin troubles, seasonal skin damages … cleansing can be customized in skin care routine. Some of the skin-saving combination products include:

• Sleeping with makeup on > Cream makeup remover + Enzyme face wash – It helps reduce skin damage caused by makeup oxidation and restore the skin
• Non-stop dryness > Cream makeup remover + Moisturizing facial foam – It cleanses skin while preserves skin’s moisture levels
• Dull skin > Wipe-off makeup-removing lotion + Carbonated face wash – This combination removes dead skin cells and promotes blood circulation
• Feel tired and sleepy > Highly-moisturizing wipe-off makeup remover + Wipe-off lotion – You can save time with wipe-off makeup remover

Suisai Beauty Clear Powder Wash is one of the hottest cleansers available from leading cosmetics producer Kanebo which guarantees a gentle yet effective cleanse for silky smooth skin. It is ranked as the number one facial wash in Japan for three consecutive years.

It contains:

• Proteolytic enzyme (protease) and sebum degrading enzyme to exfoliate and remove excess sebum for acne prevention, and
• Soymilk fermentation extract, watercress extract and licorice root extract to moisturize

Get cleansing, moisturizing & tone-up benefits with one product! Shiseido has developed “Integrate Fast Skin Maker” - all-in-one gel that works as a wipe-off face wash, moisturizer and makeup base.

It removes dirt and unnecessary sebum, and leaves the skin feeling refreshed. Formulated with moisturizing ingredients (Aloe Vera Extract, Apricot Extract, Royal Jelly Extract, Orange Oil, Lemon Extract, Glycerin) and highly-moisturizing beauty essence ingredients (PEG / PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, PEG / PPG-17/4 Dimethyl Ether, Erythritol, Di (Phytosteryl/ Octyldodecyl) Lauroylglutamate, Glycerin), the formulations provides fresh moisture to the skin.

And, formulated with Micro Mineral Pearl and Tone-up Powder, it provides skin-looking finish bypore-covering and unevenness-correcting effects to make refined, translucent skin.

There is a specific cleanser available to be used as an eye care and perfect for the lash extension users. MESIRU Eye Care & Skin Care Shampoo is a Japanese cleansing foam for the eye area by ROHTO Pharmaceuticals. It is an eye cleansing serum that traps and removes makeup stains and impurities from eyelids and eyelashes.

Further, Japanese personal care products companies have developed natural inspired cleansing products for added values and attraction such as sensory juicy or botanical inspired from hair care.

• Limited Edition Waso Resetting Cleanser Squad by Shiseido – It is a set of 3 colorful, freshly-squeezed juice-like facial cleansers which can be selected according to user’s mood of the moment
• Botanist (I-NE) Cleansing Oil, Cleansing Milk, Face Wash - Botanist is releasing its first skincare products (cleansing oil, cleansing milk and face wash) inspired by botanical science and skin

Hydration Dream

Hydration is a must have benefit for the ideal beauty quest. This beauty routine is about layering watery /oil layer for perfect comfort and skin translucence. Balms are now used as the hydration best friends perfect for layering & nomadism with multi benefits from hair to skin. Moreover, new steps with new textures are also created for all in one approach.


The trend dictates, moving to a new sense of all in one care for busy women on weekday.

Botanical Esthé 5 in 1 Shower Mist by Stella Seed is a 5 in one intense hydrating mist without the stickiness that takes only 2 seconds to apply. It is made from the finest grade botanical extracts - formulated with 92% natural ingredients. It can be used as toner, serum, emulsion, oil, cream and provides instantly provides long-lasting hydration.

Aqua-Collagen-Gel Enrich Lift EX by Dr. Ci:Labo offers 8-in-1 function: Lotion, Serum, Emulsion, Eye cream, Cream, Massage cream, Facial pack, and Makeup base.

It is an anti-aging gel formulated with “Penetration-type Fermented Collagen (Lactobacillus Ferment/ Hydrolyzed Collagen Ferment Filtrate, Aspergillus/ Hydrolyzed Collagen Ferment Filtrate)” for the first time in the world to effectively deliver collagen to the skin and give skin an unprecedented firmness.

Further, products like Free Plus Watery Cream by Kanebo and Shiseido’s limited-edition Aqua Label White Jelly Cool (QD) promote sensorial approach in hydration routines.

1. Free Plus Watery Cream by Kanebo - A “watery cushion cream” that achieves fresh, “lightweight texture” and “rich hydration” to meet the needs of those who have sensitive skin and are concerned about skin dryness. Forms a moisturizing transparent film on the skin to preserve skin’s moisture level and create translucent, smooth skin.
2. Shiseido’s Aqua Label White Jelly Cool (QD) - All-in-one jelly fulfills all your skincare needs in the morning and evening to create clear, plumped skin brimming with translucency. This 5-in-one jelly (whitening lotion, serum, emulsion, astringent lotion, mask) provides a -2°C cooling effect, tightens skin and pores, and creates fully hydrated, translucent, bright skin.

Whitening Enlightenment

Japan remains the leading country in this segment and promotes new categories with several benefits. Whitening is a lot more about spot concerns and also focuses on skin tone, anti-dullness, rosy up… Today, spot concerns are not only because of the sun but also because lifestyle, pollution, and stress are increasing melanin process and skin dullness.

As we discussed above about the scientific approach, Japanese companies are now focusing on genes versus stress & aging. Cosmetics maker, Pola found that the melanocytes are usually moving to properly disperse melanin to the epidermis, keeping the skin tone even. Pola named this mechanism “Alive Clear Function”.

They have discovered for the first time in the industry the fact that the gene called “melanocyte ABR”, which inhibits the melanocyte transfer, is affected by stress and aging. This is resulting in decline in “Alive Clear Function” and the appearance of dark spots, dullness and uneven skin tone.

Further, recent study has found that more than 70% of women think that they should do whitening care throughout the year. Most of them wish to find a product that provides both whitening and moisturizing effects. Among people who use whitening products all year round, there are many women who think whitening products lack moisturizing capability (Source: Shiseido)



Two whitening formulations from Shiseido meet this demand!

Haku Melano Deep Moisture (QD)	Haku Melano Deep Oil (QD)
Gel-textured condensed moisturizing and whitening lotion. Gel turns into lotion upon application and gives a refreshing sensation. Formulated with whitening ingredient (Potassium Methoxysalicylate) and moisturizing ingredients (Rebound Block (UncariaGambirExtract, Glycerin), Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate.	Moisturizing & whitening oil for whitening care in autumn and winter. To be used as the last step in your skincare routine to lock in moisture and whitening active ingredient (Potassium Methoxysalicylate). Formulated with moisturizing ingredient: Rebound Block (Uncaria Gambir Extract, Glycerin). Sophisticated translucent scent to offer a luxury whitening care experience.

Thinking Differently About Aging! J-beauty also incorporates a new attitude against fast aging care which includes morning skincare as well as SPF for true skincare benefits and thorough UV protection.

Shiseido’s launched two new products meeting this trend:

• Junpaku Senka White Beauty Serum SPF50+/PA++++ (QD) is a 3-in-one serum providing whitening, UV care, CC effect to create pure, white bare skin, which is one grade higher than your normal skin.
• Benefique White UV Genius SPF50+/PA++++ (QD) is a sunscreen serum that provides whitening effects and UV protection effect in one. “Pico moisture technology” and moisture-circulating beauty ingredients (Cinnamon bark, Falcatum Extract, Cassumunar Extract, and Glycerin) restore moisture balance, and bring out skin’s natural power to create beautiful skin. It is recommended to “Tired” people so that they achieve whitening effects and UV protection in one.

Earlier this year, KOSÉ has developed Prédia White Day Solution SPF50+/PA++++ (QD) - a whitening serum for daytime use to prevent UV rays strongly while providing whitening and aging care.5-in-one: whitening, aging care, moisturizing, UV protection, and makeup base. It prevents not only spots and freckles but also hot flashes and rough skin after sunburn.

Special Care - Mask Addiction

Masks have become a mainstream product for daily usage. They feature concentrated ingredients and offer more & more targeted skincare benefits. With masks, consumers have found new usages for time saving benefits – masks benefits were 1st promoted by Japan.

Tokiwa Pharmaceutical’s Zubolabo Wipe-Off Lotion Sheet is time-saving sheet mask specifically focusing on makeup application and reducing morning skincare time. A morning wipe-off lotion sheet that can be used as a face wash, moisturizing care and keratin care. Formulated with moisturizing ingredients to hydrate the skin while saving the time in the morning it Improves the wear of makeup.

SHISEIDO’s limited edition Waso Silky Smooth Mochi Mask is a DIY face mask to be made by blending powder and liquid in the provided cup, then kneading and stretching them inside it, just like making Mochi (rice cake). Like a freshly made mochi, it’s soft texture let users make their favorite shapes to be applied faces and achieve bright, smooth skin. It keeps the skin warm, and leads to healthy-looking, glowing skin.

Stress Concerns - Early & Fast Aging

Aging process is not only a matter of age. Rapidly growing stress and urban aggressions increase inflammations & aging sins. Aging turning point is important to be defined per country as China lead the “early aging” approach with young active targets.

New devices promoting more efficacy are popular from Japan to all other countries. Recently, Pola has introduced Apex “microdust resistance power” as a new skin analysis indicator.

"Apex" is based on a skin analysis system that estimates the state of all layers of skin (epidermis / dermis) from microscopic information on the skin surface. This new indicator will measure the skin’s capacity to protect itself and effectively eliminate microdust from the skin (condition of the cells and distance between them + how the cells come off, which means how the skin gets rid of microdust from the skin).

"Clear Micro Essence" contains Pola original beauty ingredient "Clear Micro Extract" which helps revoke damage caused in the skin and prepare a smooth and plump skin.

According to the study by Shiseido

• Over 90% of men and women feel stressed in daily life (at the workplace, home, on a train, etc.)
• More than 40% of them feel concerned about stress smell, and also half of them want to take care of it.

Hence, to target skin problems due to chronic skin fatigue and stress, Shiseido has developed BENEFIQUE GENIUS with a focus on the relationship between fatigue in women and their skin. This new skincare series proposes a relaxing skincare time called “Reset Time”. Pico Moisture technology and Moisture Circulating Beauty ingredients (Cinnamon Extract, Bupleurum Root Extract, Zingiberpurpureum Roxb Root Extract, Glycerin) are contained in all products to deliver beauty ingredients to every inch of the skin and enhance the skin’s ability to beautify itself.

Makeup Remains a Must

This trend remains equally important among consumers because of social etiquette & image. Today, foundation is looking for new definitions & formats, challenged by BB / CC cream, new lifestyles, hybrids and new beauty ideals.

Shiseido’s survey found that women wear foundation for as many as 3,500 hours every year. However, about 60% of respondents hold a negative impression that foundation is not good for the skin, with some reducing its use. Shiseido aims to turn this negative impression into a positive one and make those 3,500 hours a richer time for all consumers, including those who wear foundation regularly and those who do not.

Shiseido is now promoting the new beauty practice of “skin conditioning for women who wear foundation for 3,500 hours a year” through “Medicated Care-Hybrid Foundation”. This foundation provides medicated skincare effects for a more beautiful complexion and a beautiful finish.

Eyes are the new nails! The new eye make-up cosmetics in Japan offers benefits from amazing brow definition and lasting power to new easy-going mono eyeshadow. Some of them are:

• Uzu By Flowfushi Eye Opening Liner is a reinvented liquid eyeliner to maximize the freedom of user, the brand removed the frames and searched the potentials of liquid eyeliner
• Shiro Ginger Eyeshadow Palette is a playful palette with base & accent colors formulated with ginger extract for pure and bright skin.

Last but not the least… Male beauty & cosmetics for men in Japan now offer new perfection expression without “macho” European stereotypes – It is Easy, Quick and Smart!

What About J-beauty in this Covid Situation?

More than ever we can see how the brands are locally moving towards strategic direction to reinforce some of their key positions within a very particular market.

100 Year Life, a New Paradigm Relating to Aging Care as be Beautiful Forever

The country is celebrating or embracing Japan’ longevity and societal changes. Many publications have been mentioning that 1 out of 1500 people in Japan is a centenarian and 80% of them are female. Therefor some brands, in addition to promoting Positive aging mind & beauty, have already starting promoting the concept of ageless beauty cells thanks to epigenetics approach of gene LINC00942 (cf Pola B.A. new launched range) or Thioredoxin protein ( cf Fancl Core Effector launching).

Skin immunity will also another key driver already highlighted by Shiseido but now boosted by new natural brands such as Immuno brand which focus on lipopolysaccharide (LPS) action to protect Langerhans-cells keystone of the skin’s immunity.

High-tech Beauty is More Than Ever Driving the J-beauty

J-beauty remains symbol of research and scientist approach with endless publication of new discoveries and their related products. As an example, Dr Ci:Labo is highlighting new facts on collagen degradation (after oxidation & glycation) and highlight the Carbamylation process (CF Dr Ci Labo new Aqua Collagen Gel Enrich Lift Ext). To be noticed Kose’s approach on lifting action thanks to “Glucosyl Naringin” but also connection with high-tech devices such as Kao Biomimesis Veil, an ultra: an ultra-thin veil sprayed directly over the skin with a diffuser to maintain an optimum moisturizing environment during sleep.

Covid has Highlighted the Direction of Nesting & Stay Home Care Beauty

Take time to take care of your beauty, slow down to be more self-conscious, this was already the philosophy of Japanese beauty.

Beauty devices market is actively dynamic & creative nowadays including devices for male grooming and creating partnerships with cosmetics names. The three brands are extremely interesting to look at include Panasonic, Ya-man and Refa. These brands through their latest launchings are promoting Iontophoresis, ultrasonic wave, LED, RF, EMS, and micro current for skin as well as for hair & scalp.

Specifically, Steamers are showing a dynamic growth such as Ya-man company which focused on Covid-induced sensitivity caused by mask wearing & stress. Their new steamer Bright Clean ( IS-98) raises the skin's surface temperature to approximately 40°C and softens keratin, supporting deep cleansing and moisturizing care. It features “barrier mode” function for irritated skin by a mask, and “long mode function” that lasts up to 7 hours allowing users to take care of their skin while working or sleeping.

Healing & Soothing Power - Emotion Driven

Shiseido has several year ago opened the path to neuro-science approaches and the links/messages exchanged between skin & brain (cf Shiseido ReNeura technology™). Japanese cosmetics have had always a deep emotional approach linked to polysensoriality from all aspects of a product such as amazing textures and consumer centric package.


More than ever brands are communicating on sense of relaxation, healing powers & even sense of joy that can offer their products or their adapted beauty approaches. Pola has developed an amazing dancing program (Bi-Ha-Dance) focusing on stress biomarkers and their relationships with spots & wrinkles. Kose is claiming that the use of their latest foundation (AQ Meliority Repair Treatment Serum Foundation) their recent foundation bring joy, pleasure, comfort and relief. In addition, when measuring brain waves, it shows that this foundation has a psychological effect, such as an increased sense of euphoria, in terms of "finish", "feel", and "scent".



Discover the key trends & regulations specific to Korean beauty & how K-beauty is different from other Asian beauty trends: