TAGS: in-cosmetics Sustainability / Natural Cosmetics
Dr. Barbara Olioso is a true trailblazer in the world of green cosmetic chemistry. As the Managing Director of The Green Chemist Consultancy, she has been at the forefront of sustainable and natural cosmetics formulation since 1999.
This year too, Barbara moderated the Sustainability Zone at in-cosmetics Global, held in Paris from 16-18 April 2024.
The cosmetics industry is putting a tremendous amount of research into sustainability. It resulted in an impressive series of 46 presentations, a record high! These along with the talks in the sustainability pods and the pavilion made the sustainability zone the place to be.
As moderator of the sustainability zone, Barbara has a complete view of everything that went on there. She agreed to share the sustainability initiatives that stood out for her. Let’s hear directly from her.
Cultural Shift: Sustainability with Transparency
I opened the sustainability zone with some brief remarks, emphasizing the cultural shift that I believe is happening in the cosmetics industry and society in general. The shift focuses on having a holistic approach to the manufacture of products. One that is taking care of people and the environment at the same time. The shift is still in the early stages but is gaining momentum and is increasingly visible to professionals as well as consumers.
Everlane's ethical and radical transparency
A great example of this cultural shift is that taken by Everlane. It is a US fashion brand that promotes ethical and radical transparency. Great care is taken in the following aspects:
- Selection of textiles: This includes the substances used in the manufacturing process.
- Rigorous checking on their suppliers' pay rates to workers: This ensures they have a reasonable wage with reasonable hours.
Their radical transparency even covers the disclosure of the costs of their products, such as shipping, manufacturing, duties, etc. I wondered if the cosmetic industry could ever reach this level of transparency. Having said that, the movement towards greater transparency is certainly on the cards.
Sephora's Planet Aware Seal: Promoting transparency in the cosmetics industry
Sephora launched the Planet Aware Seal which involves the disclosure of information about:
- ingredients,
- LCAs,
- packaging, and
- compliance with the European Union Deforestation Regulation (EUDR)
Brands that are thinking forward need to ask themselves how they can future-proof their formulations. The quality marks emphasizing transparency and sustainability will become mainstream sooner than expected.
Planet Aware at Sephora Brands are Committed to 4 Sustainability Pillars
(Credit: Sephora1)
Biodiversity and Sustainable Sourcing in Cosmetics
Biodiversity was a big theme this year. This is due to the concerns over deforestation and the increase in
naturally derived materials. It has inspired new ways to extract the best from nature without causing any harm. Biodiversity is also stimulating research in plants and how they behave to climate change. This new research, in turn, helps to optimize conditions that boost biodiversity and support ecosystems with a regenerative effect.
PREMIUM ORGANIC's sustainable peat extract for anti-aging properties
ALPIN HEILMOOR EXTRACT™ by PREMIUM ORGANIC is an extract from peatlands in the Alpine region. Peat is an interesting material as it contains valuable humic acids that have strong skin calming and anti-aging properties. However, peat extraction is also associated with high greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions.
Peatlands represent the biggest carbon reservoir on the planet. Thus, taking peat out means letting this ancient carbon out. This added to the loss of biodiversity attached to the wild areas where peatland is found, could be a strong negative to the use of peat. So the challenge of making a sustainable peat extract has become an opportunity to find a new way to extract the precious goodness of peat. This is to be done without increasing GHG emissions and losing biodiversity.
The Story of ALPIN HEILMOOR EXTRACT™
(Credit: PREMIUM ORGANIC2)
The smart solution to make sustainable peat is to:
- Take some peat out
- Extract what is needed
- Then put the peat back where it was and add some extra water
- Monitor the area and measure the level of biodiversity
A team of scientists also measured the carbon captured as a result of this low-impact extraction model and habitat restoration. So far they have found that it binds 300 tons of CO
2 equivalent per year.
Hallstar's thyme exploration: As holistic skin perfector
Another exciting biodiversity project is the one for the growing of thyme in the French Mediterranean region. Permission was required for the program to access the ecosystem and to have the requirement to preserve the natural heritage and landscape. Once started the project was divided into three phases:
- Phase 1 — To understand the biochemistry and variability of thyme.
- Phase 2 — To find the plants in the area of the study and to make an inventory of them.
- Phase 3 — To come up with a strategy to preserve the area.
The project is currently in the second phase. This reveals how thyme has adapted to different climatic and environmental conditions. The cosmetic active containing the thyme from this initiative is
Clear Oléoactif® by Hallstar.
CLEAR Oléoactif® by Hallstar
(Credit: Hallstar3)
Beyond ingredients: Seppic's four-pillar biodiversity strategy
Not only ingredients but also companies can have an impact on biodiversity.
Seppic did this evaluation with a 4 pillar strategy that uses:
- RSPO-certified palm kernel oil derivatives
- Renewable energy with water and waste management
- Eco-design for new ingredients
- Partnership with Act4Nature (an NGO working with businesses to improve biodiversity)
The biodiversity evaluation helped to identify the critical points for reducing the carbon footprint without affecting biodiversity. More work needs to be done to improve the evaluation process. However, this first step is very important as a reference point for future efforts.
Sourcing cosmetic ingredients from biodiversity-rich zones to protect wetlands
Some countries are also proactive in protecting their biodiversity. One of these is Peru, with 62% of its area made up of Amazon forest, a biodiversity paradise. Peru offers many natural ingredients for the cosmetic industry like:
- avocado oil,
- buriti oil,
- jojoba oil,
- cocoa butter,
- vanilla extract,
- tara gum, and
- anthocyanins
The presentation of Prom Peru included a Peruvian supplier, Candela. It has the Union for Ethical Bio Trade (UEBT) and organic certifications. They source
Mauritia flexuosa to make
CANDELA Buriti Oil from the region of Loreto, which is made up of 25% wetlands.
Cropping this plant means protecting the area and its wetland, and keeping the carbon it stores where it is. The buriti palm tree is a tall tree that requires climbing to harvest it by hand which is done by local families. It produces a fruit that has several applications in cosmetics, food, and nutraceuticals. Its benefits are mainly associated with its high beta-carotene content. This makes it suitable for skin and hair applications.
Green Impact Index by Pierre Fabre
These are exciting times; the Green Impact Index has just launched its website
5. This tool is born out of the desire to be more transparent about product sustainability and benefit to consumers. This tool aims to be a comprehensive scoring system that includes not only the
end of life of cosmetics but also biodiversity and social impacts.
The foundation of the tool is a raw material database containing LCA metrics when available. Sometimes approximations were applied because of the lack of data. This shows how much good data is needed by our cosmetics industry right now.
The Green Impact Index has a consortium behind it comprising 24 brands. Any brand can join by paying a fee that is proportionate to their turnover. The methodology is validated by a third party, AFNOR. It has recently published AFNOR Spec 2215 (display of the environmental and societal impact of cosmetics, food supplements, family health, and wellness products). It is similar to the ISO standards documents. I did not manage to find a version in English, but I hope it will be available soon.
The methodology is based on measuring and monitoring over 50 criteria regarding:
- packaging,
- biodiversity,
- formulas,
- manufacturing, and
- transport of the finished products used by consumers
To these are added social criteria from fair trade to animal welfare, respect for human rights, and so on. The overall criteria are divided into 80% environmental criteria and 20% social ones.
An example of solid shampoo scoring A was given.
- Some of its environmental impact was given by:
- high natural content, i.e., 87% naturally derived,
- no silicones,
- no plastic packaging,
- no eco-toxicity, and
- low CO2 impact of raw materials transport
- Its social impact was given by some certified organic vegetable oil, vegan ingredients, and the manufacturer’s compliance with the PACTE law.
Another example was given for a lipstick scoring a C, because of the environmental impact associated with the packaging. This shows the tool works, as low scores help to improve the product.
The consortium is also open to working with raw materials suppliers. Especially if the suppliers have good data that can be used in the Green Impact Index tool. This tool is in its early stages. However, it is worth paying attention to considering its easy-to-understand and pretty scoring system.
The Green Impact Index Tool Showing Product Scores on a Scale of A to E
(Credit: Green Impact Index5)
Conclusion
There is a cultural shift happening and it was clearly visible at the in-cosmetics Global 2024, Sustainability Zone. This area highlights the amazing work done by raw material suppliers and brands focusing on this shift. They displayed different facets of sustainability which are in constant evolution and growth. The key trends include:
- Transparency on many levels - Validation is expected of the detail behind sustainability-related claims. Saying that x is sustainable is no longer enough, it is expected to be supported by evidence.
- Biodiversity was a big theme focusing on:
- The ingredients are harvested or cropped by optimized processes to minimize GHG emissions and preserve, or regenerate biodiversity.
- Companies are also starting to measure their biodiversity impact.
- Countries such as Peru have a high biodiversity capital. They are making cosmetic ingredients available yet protecting wild habitats.
- Consumers are after more transparency behind sustainability claims. As a result, Pierre Fabre has launched the Green Impact Index Consortium to provide a tool with a scoring system. This tool measures over 50 criteria, environmental and social, leading to the award of a score from A to E.
I hope to see you at the Sustainability Zone in Amsterdam in 2025 to discover the latest sustainability innovations in the cosmetic industry.
About Dr. Barbara Olioso
Barbara Olioso is a doctor of chemistry with a passion for plant botanicals and sustainability in cosmetic products. She is based in the UK and has been formulating and specializing in natural and organic cosmetics since 1999, developing skincare and haircare products. Back in 2005, she was behind the launch of the first certified organic eau de toilette with Primavera Aromatherapy, i.e., Espa International. Barbara also moderates the Sustainability Corner at in-cosmetics Global and writes for trade magazines.
Her services go from strategic technical support and project management for start-ups and SMEs, to incorporate sustainability in NPD for bigger businesses as well as innovative formulation services. Barbara is the author of The Green Chemist's Handbook for Cosmetic Preservation launched in 2021. This handbook is the result of her experience in helping formulators save time and use 'green chemistry' and 'circular' cosmetic ingredients in their formulations.
Know more about Barbara ➤ |