Elkem’s New Solutions for High Efficacy Frizz Control and Transfer-proof Cosmetics

TAGS:  Hair Care    Decorative Cosmetics   

Despite the tens of thousands of beauty products available on the market, unmet needs still exist. For instance, frizz taming under humidity is still a challenge for many people with curly hair prone to frizz. In makeup, transfer-proof cosmetics are back in focus due to mask-wearing, so is the need for improvements such as comfort, flexibility, and resistance to oil and water within this category of products.

To help formulators overcome the challenges and address identified performance gaps, the Elkem team recently developed a series of fluorosilicones with ideal performance against the negative impacts attributed to humidity on hair, oil and water on makeup, and moisture loss on the skin. In this article, you will learn about this specific class of ingredients and what benefits they bring to a variety of Personal Care products.

The PURESIL™ fluorosilicones are ingredients that feature inherent properties such as:

• low surface tension,
• fast spreadability,
• light and lubricious sensory feel,
• hydrophobicity and oleophobicity, and
• high-temperature resistance.

They can be formulated into a variety of products such as hair serums, foundations, eyeliners, and lip colors to deliver the desired performance.

Product Name	INCI
PURESIL™ TFL 5	Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone
PURESIL™ TFL 30	Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone
PURESIL™ SF-30	Perfluorobutylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone

PURESIL™ Fluorosilicone Series
In this article, we will demonstrate the performance of these products in hair serum, transfer-proof makeup, and skin cream, specifically for the benefits such as frizz control, hair damage protection with repeated use of heat appliances, hair shine, oil and water resistance for transfer-proof makeup, improved film integrity/flexibility, and maintaining skin hydration over time.

Frizz Control Efficacy Against High Humidity

Frizz control testing was carried out on Brazilian curly hair. Hair serums were made with 1% active PURESIL™ Fluorosilicones in D5 (cyclopentasiloxane). Hair serum with 10% silicone gum blends in D5 was used as a benchmark since it is the most recognized frizz control solution on the market. Hair tresses treated with the above-mentioned formulas and the untreated tress were then subjected to 90% relative humidity at 35°C for 48 hours. The images of tresses before and after the humidity chamber exposure are captured below.

Excellent frizz control immediately after application

PURESIL™ TFL 5 & SF-30 are very efficient and show excellent frizz control with better curl definition immediately after application. After being subjected to the controlled humidity environment for 48 hours, the hair tresses treated with either PURESIL™ TFL 5 or SF-30 showed minimal volume increase and retained curl definition. The images also highlight the use of PURESIL™ fluorosilicones to be more effective in frizz control than the 10% silicone gum blend (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol) in D5.

Frizz control performance after 48 hours under 90% RH and 35°C

Protect Hair Against Heat Damage with PURESIL™ TFL 5

Heat appliances such as flat irons are commonly used when styling for their ability to manage even the coarsest or curliest of hair. Along with the primary goal of visually achieving a uniform style, flat irons can also bring hair alignment and add shine. However, repeat use of heat appliances above 150°C leads to damaged hair.

PURESIL™ TFL 5, TFL 30 & SF-30 can protect hair against heat damage. PURESIL™ fluorosilicone was applied to tresses of triple bleached Caucasian hair that had also been damaged with a 1% NaOH solution. These tresses were subjected to a flat iron with a set temperature of 230°C for 150 times. Combing for 20 times followed with the broken hair fibers then being collected and weighed. The results are shown in the figure below.

Hair treated with silicone-containing serums all showed significant improvement in heat protection against breakage. Hair treated with 1% PURESIL™ TFL 5 solution in D5 provided the best heat protection in showing minimal hair breakage.

Enhance Shine with PURESIL™ SF-30

Achieving a look of glossy, shiny hair is a leading driver of beauty enhancement in hair care applications. In addition to the frizz control and heat protection provided, PURESIL™ SF-30 has shown added enhancement in shine and hair alignment. As shown in the figure below, the twice bleached Caucasian hair tress treated with 1% PURESIL™ SF-30 in D5 (right) looks healthy and shiny in comparison to that treated with only D5 (left).

Take the Transfer-proof Makeup to a New Level

Over the years, many advancements have been made in transfer-proof cosmetics. However, with the need for mask-wearing, the category is back in focus due to the demand. Improvements such as flexible/conformance/non-cracking and more resistance to oil and water can help win over consumers.

With these goals in mind, an anhydrous eyeliner formulated with 1% PURESIL™ SF-30 was evaluated against an unmodified control. Once applied and allowed to dry, the eyeliner was subjected to jojoba oil for 5 minutes. Transfer paper was then applied against the samples with the resulting performance highlighted by the formulation containing PURESIL™ SF-30 showing no color transfer in the figure below.


Water-resistance testing was performed in parallel on eyeliner individually formulated with PURESIL™ TFL 5 & SF-30. Samples were applied to a rubber sheet and allowed to dry before being immersed in water for 24 hours. Upon removal, the impact of a 1% addition of either PURESIL™ fluorosilicone is clearly seen with sustained film integrity vs. the control, as shown in the figure below.

Better Coverage Realized When Using PURESIL™ SF-30

High spreadability and even coverage are fundamental to the success of makeup products. No matter what effect the consumer goes for, whether a natural look or a theatrical effect, it enables imperfection masking and a perfect finish.

In support, PURESIL™ SF-30 has shown to be effective at dispersing pigments. When mixed with titanium dioxide at a 50:50 ratio, the dispersion with PURESIL™ SF-30 showed greater spreadability than TiO₂ dispersed in castor oil, as shown in the figure below.


The figure below shows a better coverage of the applied mousse foundation with the addition of only 1% PURESIL™ SF-30 vs. the same foundation without it. The foundation with the aid of PURESIL™ SF-30 rendered a perfect finish and rich color.

Maintain Skin Hydration with PURESIL™ Fluorosilicones

Skin moisturization is essential for skin health and defying aging. The use of PURESIL™ fluorosilicones in combination with humectant has shown an effect on maintaining skin hydration. In a study of skin hydration, 2% of each PURESIL™ TFL 5, TFL 30 & SF-30 was formulated into oil-in-water moisturizing creams that contained 6% humectants. The cream samples were applied to the skin, and then skin hydration was measured with a Corneometer® over time.

Over a 6-hour duration, the skin treated with control cream, (i.e. with 6% humectant but without PURESIL™ Fluorosilicone) showed a drop in skin hydration level whereas the skin treated with creams containing PURESIL™ Fluorosilicone all showed sustained hydration over time. PURESIL™ TFL 5 & TFL 30 appeared to be slightly more effective in maintaining skin hydration than PURESIL™ SF-30, as shown in the figure below.

Key Takeaways

PURESIL™ fluorosilicone hybrid polymers exhibit excellent protection against the negative impacts of humidity on hair, oil and water on makeup, and moisture loss on the skin. Other benefits when using PURESIL™ TFL 5, TFL 30 & SF-30 include:

FOR HAIR:

1. Superior frizz control
2. Improved shine
3. Protection from styling heat
4. Conditioning while maintaining mobility in the hair

FOR SKIN:

1. Improved film integrity properties
2. Improved pigment dispersion
3. High spreadability and better coverage
4. Provides luxurious sensory

The applications, features, and benefits of PURESIL™ Fluorosilicones are summarized in the following table.

Products	Applications	Features and Benefits
PURESIL™ TFL 5	Hair serums Hair styling gels Skin care creams Foundations	Excellent frizz control Superb protection against humidity Luxurious sensory Use level 0.1% to 2%
PURESIL™ TFL 30	Foundations Sunscreens Makeup: Lipstick, eyeliners	Prolonged skin hydration Light and smooth feel Excellent water and oil repellency Use level 0.1% to 2%
PURESIL™ SF-30	Hair serums Foundations Sunscreens Makeup: Lipstick, eyeliners	Frizz control Natural glow High pigment dispersant Even coverage Improves film integrity Use level 0.1% to 2%

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