European [and US] legislation places anti-acne products in the drug category. Therefore in cosmetics we can only talk about products that are for acne-prone skin and exclude all therapeutic molecules, such as retinoic acid or benzoyl peroxide, from the ingredients. The solution is to formulate effective cleansing products and seborrhea regulators.
Detergents must not be aggressive, so as not to irritate sebaceous glands. Several types of surfactant can be used:
* silicone derivatives: disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate or cetrimonium laureth-12 succinate + PEG-7 dimethicone
1. alkyl polyglucosides: sodium decyl glucoside hydroxypropyl sulfonate
2. alkylglucosides: lauryl glucoside carboxylate + lauryl glucoside
3. sucrose esters: sucrose laurate, sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate
4. amphoacetates: sodium olivamphoacetate, sodium palmoamphoacetate
5. mixtures composed of sodium caproyl lactylate + cocoamidopropylbetaine + alkyl polyglucosides or of disodium lauroamphodiacetate + sodium trideceth sulfate + hexylene glycol.