Anti-aging Ingredients - Selection Guide

Biological Mechanisms Affected by Skin Aging

Skin aging is a complex biological process, which results in a decline in biochemical and physiological function, leading to:

Loss of skin luminosity and smoothness
Lack of skin tone homogeneity
Dark circles
Loss of firmness
Deep wrinkles
Dark spots
Skin dryness
Sagging skin
Loss of elasticity

When developing an anti-aging formulation, the formulator faces a very complex task. In addition to proper vehicle selection, emulsifying systems and creating a pleasing and appropriate texture, he has to select the proper active ingredients and comply with stability, cost constraints and regulatory constraints.

Many biological mechanisms are affected by skin aging and suppliers offer a plethora of ingredients. So how to proceed?

An approach can be to first define carefully the skin benefits that are desired together with selecting a desired texture.
Once they are defined, one needs to investigate the most efficient active ingredients to achieve the desired effect through thorough literature search.

Let's discuss, in detail, different type of ingredients and their role while formulating anti-aging products...

Essential Ingredients for Anti aging Cosmetics

The choice of texture is very important, reverse emulsion, direct emulsion, triple emulsion, gel, and oils will have an impact on the efficacy of the product.

To ease the selection of ingredients and systems, we have gathered here a list of ingredients that could be used in a formulation for First Signs of Aging: Moisturizer SPF 15 to get even skin tone and minimize lines.

The list of ingredients described in the matrix is non exhaustive. To address the first signs of aging, bringing moisture, correcting lines and improving the skin tone homogeneity, these categories of ingredients are essential.

Essential ingredients

UV Protection

Antioxidant

Vitamin C
Vitamin E
Polyphenols, Green tea, Grape seed, Sylimarin
Flavonoids Sylbin Resveratrol Ginko Biloba

Anti-inflammatory

Allantoin
Glycyrrhetinic acid
Aloe vera, Calendula, Curcuma longa, Camomille

Melanin inhibition

Niacinamide
Ascorbyl phosphate
Flavonoids
Peptide

Collagen synthesis

Copper Peptide-Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Retinol-Retinyl palmitate
Centelia asiatica
Vitamin C

Moisturizing

Polysaccharides
Sodium lactate
HA
NMF like

Anti-aging Ingredients for Cosmetics – Check Out All Commercial Grades

Contribution of Antioxidants & UV Filters in Anti aging Formulations

Environment, pollution, solar radiation and cigarette smoke generate free radicals in the skin which can be destructive with varying degrees of severity. Proteins (collagen, elastane), cellular membrane lipids and DNA can be damaged causing disorders that can cause premature aging. We therefore need to protect ourselves against them. The application of antioxidant and/or antiradical products on the skin is recommended.

These antioxidants and anti-radicals are either:

Molecular (e.g. vitamin C, vitamin E, polyphenols, etc.) or
Enzymatic (SOD, Catalase, etc.) or
In the form of trace elements (selenium, copper, zinc etc.).

Solar radiation – particularly UVAs – received daily play a major role in the aging process, particularly in the production of free radicals. Daily treatments integrating a sunscreen are therefore strongly recommended. Sunscreens are strongly regulated and approved sunscreens differ in Europe and in the US. Broad spectrum and balanced UV A&B is required.

Antioxidants	SPF Protection	Skin Tone Improvement	Moisture	Lines Attenuation	Strengths & Weaknesses
Vit C					VitC + Vit E work in synergy
Vit E					VitC + Vit E work in synergy
Quercetin
Ellagic acid					Solubility poor
Sylimarin Green tea extract Grape seed extract Ginkgo biloba Milk thistle					Low level, color
OPC					Solubility-stability
Resveratrol					Solubility-stability

UV Filters	SPF Protection	Strengths & Weaknesses
Avobenzone 3%	SPF 15	Approved US + Europe
Octyl salicylate 5%
Octocrylene 2.74% With solvent
Homosalate 7%

Antioxidants & UV filters Selection Matrix

Role of Anti-inflammatory Ingredients in Anti-aging Formulations

As the skin is aggressed (heat, UV light, chemicals…), it leads to the release of enzymes such as collagenases, elastases, hyaluronidases. These enzymes degrade the extracellular matrix leading to skin wrinkling. This calls for the addition of effective anti inflammatory ingredients in the anti-aging formulation.

Small amounts of anti inflammatory ingredients are usually effective. Some natural extracts having anti inflammatory properties can be more complex to use. These extracts could be flavonoids as their strong colors, odors, and sensitivity to oxidation may shorten product shelf life and modify preparation aesthetic properties. In order to deliver active ingredients and stabilize the formulations, encapsulation technologies make them easier to incorporate.

Anti-inflammatories	SPF Protection	Skin Tone Improvement	Moisture	Lines Attenuation	Strengths & Weaknesses
Curcumin					Solubility - Stability
Caffeine					Solubility
Resveratrol
Allantoin
Aloe vera
Quercetin

Contribution of Collagen Synthesis Ingredients in Anti-aging Formulations

Rebuilding the extracellular matrix via collagen synthesis together with moisturizing the epidermis is the main approach to correct first lines.

Addition or stimulation of essential NMF elements for better skin barrier, and humectant effect, improving skin hydrolipidic barrier by adding/stimulating essential lipids, normalizing intracellular water transfer via aquaporins. For Collagen enhancers, choice is among vitamin C and derivatives, peptides, soy derivatives, retinol and derivatives, centella asiatica. Finally, skin tone homogeneity a main player in facial attractiveness is directly linked to melanin.

Anti-inflammatories	SPF Protection	Skin Tone Improvement	Moisture	Lines Attenuation	Strengths & Weaknesses
Vitamin C					Expensive
Peptides					Expensive
Retinol & Esters					Stability/irritation
Centella asiatica, Whey protein, Soy isoflavones and saponins					Natural

Contribution of Melanin Inhibitors in Anti-aging Formulations

To inhibit melanin production, transport oxidation several ingredients show good activity from natural ingredients, vitamins and peptides.

Peptides are very expensive while natural flavonoids concentration is limited due to color issues. Vitamin C is most used in stabilized form and is also expensive. Resveratrol is expensive. A combination of them is often preferred.

Melanin Inhibitors	SPF Protection	Skin Tone Improvement	Moisture	Lines Attenuation	Strengths & Weaknesses
Resveratrol					Stability
Niacinamide					Affordable
Ascorbic acid					Expensive
Peptides					Expensive
Licorice, mulberry, scutellaria, flavonoids					Colored ingredients

Contribution of Moisturizing Ingredients in Anti-aging Formulations

Skin deprived of moisture is more prone to aging. Dry skin types get more wrinkles and fine lines than moisturized ones. Moisturizing ingredients in anti aging formulations help in minimizing fine lines and wrinkles. Moisturizers are often used as secret ingredients in several anti aging formulations.

Moisturizing Ingredients	SPF Protection	Skin Tone Improvement	Moisture	Lines Attenuation	Strengths & Weaknesses
Sodium lactate					Affordable
NMF like
Polysaccharides
Hyaluronic acid					Expensive
Ceramides					Expensive
Glycerin					Low Cost

In our exclusive guide, get started with the selection and formulation tips related to different classes of moisturizing ingredients and learn how to best utilize them against the target performance claim, consumer perception and expectations.

Moisturizing Agents: Selection & Formulation Tips

Find Suitable Anti-aging Ingredients for Cosmetics

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