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Cosmetics Ingredients
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Shiseido Develops Water-based Makeup Remover Utilizing Sponge Phase

Published on 2021-05-21. Edited By : SpecialChem

TAGS:  Decorative Cosmetic   

Makeup RemoverShiseido Company, Limited (“Shiseido”) has succeeded in generating a unique state of surfactant called a “sponge phase” in water and applying it to makeup remover.

With the use of a sponge phase as water-based makeup remover, its unique mesh-like structure achieves not only a refreshing skin feel after use but also excellent cleansing ability.

Cleansing Water Formulation


In recent years, many water-based or “micellar” cleansing waters have been launched on the market. While micellar solutions give a refreshing, non-sticky and moisturized skin feel after use, they contain almost no oily ingredients which play an important role in removing makeup. Because of that, there leave a technical point to be desired to improvement in terms of cleansing ability compared to other cleansing formulations.

Shiseido researchers have verified the functions required for makeup remover and possible formulations using a sponge phase, and pursued the development of an innovative cleansing water formulation.

They evaluated the cleansing ability of a formulation with a sponge phase. In the test, the researchers used cotton puffs each soaked with an equal amount of sponge phase formulation and conventional formulation, then used them to wipe off foundation which was applied to white artificial leather several times, and observed the process of makeup removal. Results showed that the conventional formulation left some residual makeup, while the sponge phase formulation almost completely removed the foundation.

Evaluates Skin Condition After Cleansing


The researchers also compared “skin feel after use” between sponge phase formulation and conventional formulation by asking 100 women in their 20s and 30s to evaluate each formulation’s usability and their skin condition after cleansing. Results showed that the sponge phase formulation was evaluated favorably in all categories.

In particular, it surpassed the conventional formulation not only in the usability categories of “refreshing” and “non-sticky”, which are important factors for cleansing water, but also in the categories of “skin brightened” and “skin dullness improved”.

These results can be attributed to the fact that the sponge phase in the formulation blends with oil easily and has high permeability into fine structure (low interfacial tension), thereby removing unnecessary part of stratum corneum on the skin.

In summary, the researchers have achieved the use of a sponge phase in cleansing water formulation, which was previously thought never before possible, and successfully develop a cleansing water that provides both a pleasant feel after use and excellent cleansing ability.

Shiseido will apply this technology to Clé de Peau BEAUTÉ MICELLAR CLEANSING WATER which will be launched in Japan in June and overseas in July 2021, and to future cleansing products.


Source: Shiseido
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