TAGS: Skin Care
BASF develops a comprehensive approach to test typical cosmetic formulation components for their anti-pollution efficacy. Systematic analyses allow to identify cosmetic ingredients that help protect the skin from particulate pollutants.
Analyses Target 4 Core Action Mechanisms
The systematic analyses target four core mechanisms of action: anti-adhesion, removability, anti-penetration and cleansing. The test results are then used to create new, effective skin care formulations offering protection against the adverse impact of particulate pollutants on skin health.
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We want to assist manufacturers in developing skin care products that demonstrably help shield the skin against particulate pollutants. However, there is no ‘one-size-fits-all’ test for anti-pollution claims, as there are different types of pollutants and consequently several defense methods that may be needed to protect the skin effectively,” said Dr. Annette Mehling, senior manager, Skin Sciences.
Decrease Anti-adhesion and Removability from Skin
BASF has designed a new standardized in vivo testing method that evaluates the ability of typical ingredients or formulations to decrease particle adhesion and/or improve their removability from pre-treated skin (i.e. rinse-off).
The choice of polymers,
emollients and
emulsifiers in the formulation significantly influences these two parameters.
Ingredients Forming Protective Layer on the Skin
In a second approach, an in-vitro permeability model simulating the penetration of pollutants through the skin was developed to test and identify ingredients that help to form a protective layer. As an example, selecting the right polymers plays a key role in terms of an anti-penetration effect, as penetration levels varied significantly between the polymers tested.
Cleansing Performance of Ingredients on Polluted Skin
Using a collagen matrix as a model skin, an in vitro test set-up was developed that allowed for the evaluation of the
cleansing performance of ingredients and formulations on polluted skin. With a focus on cleansing oils, the analysis of eleven emollients revealed that the cleansing performance correlates directly to the physico-chemical parameters: the best results were achieved with emollients possessing a high spreading value and low viscosity.
BASF researchers incorporated the best-performing ingredients for each defense mechanism against environmental pollution into new skin care formulations. When developing these formulations, the team also optimized other attributes, such as sensory properties or consumer-perceived benefits like moisturization or skin mildness. Overall, these formulations significantly outperformed products marketed with anti-pollution claims.
Source: BASF