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The material selection platform
Cosmetics Ingredients
The material selection platform
Cosmetics Ingredients

THIOGLYCOLIC ACID

CAS Number 68-11-1
Chem/IUPAC Name: Mercaptoacetic acid
EINECS/ELINCS No: 200-677-4
COSING REF No: 38587
THIOGLYCOLIC ACID
Thioglycolic acid is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics, particularly in hair removal products. Its primary function is to break down the protein structure of hair, making it more pliable and easier to remove. Thioglycolic acid is a key component in depilatory creams and lotions, where it works by disrupting the disulfide bonds in the keratin protein of hair. This chemical reaction weakens the hair shaft, allowing for mechanical removal or its dissolution. While effective in hair removal, products containing thioglycolic acid should be used with caution, as they may cause skin irritation. The chemical formula of this ingredient is C2H4O2S and it is also known by some other names like Mercaptoacetic acid.

What is THIOGLYCOLIC ACID used for?

Thioglycolic acid serves diverse functions in the world of personal care and cosmetics.
  • Cosmetic products: It is a key ingredient in depilatory creams, where its ability to break down hair proteins facilitates hair removal. Its inclusion ensures an efficient and convenient method for temporary hair removal, commonly used on areas like legs and arms
  • Skin care products: In skincare, thioglycolic acid is employed as a peeling agent. Its exfoliating properties help remove dead skin cells, promoting smoother skin texture. However, due to its potency, it must be used cautiously to avoid skin irritation or adverse reactions
  • Hair care: It is used in permanent wave solutions, thioglycolic acid alters the protein structure of hair, allowing it to take on a new shape. This chemical process, known as a "perm," is popular for creating long-lasting curls or waves in hair

Origin

Thioglycolic acid is synthesized through the reaction of chloroacetic acid with hydrogen sulfide. This process involves the substitution of a chlorine atom in chloroacetic acid with a sulfhydryl (thiol) group from hydrogen sulfide, resulting in the formation of thioglycolic acid. Purification steps are then carried out to obtain the final product. In its raw form, it appears as a colorless liquid.

What does THIOGLYCOLIC ACID do in a formulation?

  • Depilatory
  • Hair waving or straightening
  • Reducing

Safety profile

While depilatory creams and perm solutions containing diluted thioglycolic acid are generally considered safe when used as directed, prolonged or excessive exposure may lead to adverse effects. It is crucial to perform patch tests before application, and individuals with sensitive skin or respiratory conditions should exercise caution or consult a healthcare professional before using products containing thioglycolic acid.

Technical profile

Property Values
Boiling Point 96°C
Melting Point -16°C
pH 1.5
Solubility Miscible in water
1
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