The Universal Selection Source: Cosmetics Ingredients

Julian Hewitt

Senior Manager/ Director, JPH SunCare Technologies Ltd., United Kingdom

Bio

Julian Hewitt is a leading expert on the formulation, development and testing of sunscreen products, with over 25 years of experience in this field.

Julian graduated from Oxford University in 1988 with a BA Honours Degree in Chemistry. After graduating, he joined Tioxide, working on new product development from 1988 to 1991. In 1991, he joined Tioxide's Solaveil* Business, as Applications Research and Technical Service Manager for physical sunscreen products. He remained with the Solaveil* business as it moved from Tioxide to ICI Performance Chemicals, then to Uniqema when the latter was formed in 1999. Julian was promoted to ICI’s Science Ladder as the company’s ...







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Julian Hewitt is a leading expert on the formulation, development and testing of sunscreen products, with over 25 years of experience in this field.

Julian graduated from Oxford University in 1988 with a BA Honours Degree in Chemistry. After graduating, he joined Tioxide, working on new product development from 1988 to 1991. In 1991, he joined Tioxide's Solaveil* Business, as Applications Research and Technical Service Manager for physical sunscreen products. He remained with the Solaveil* business as it moved from Tioxide to ICI Performance Chemicals, then to Uniqema when the latter was formed in 1999. Julian was promoted to ICI’s Science Ladder as the company’s sun care Technical Expert, and from 2002 served as an adviser to Uniqema’s Sales & Marketing, Product Development, and Technical Service teams. He continued in this role after Uniqema was purchased by Croda in 2006.

During this time, Julian represented Uniqema / Croda as the main customer technical focus for sun care products, developed and delivered training programmes for both internal and external audiences, and guided the development and launch of innovative new sun care ingredients.

Julian left Croda in October 2011 and formed JPH SunCare Technologies, providing technical consultancy services, regulatory advice, and training to manufacturers of UV protection products and suppliers of ingredients used in such products.

Julian has presented over 40 papers and posters at conferences in venues across the World, and in particular has been a frequent speaker at the Florida SCC Sunscreen Symposium and the London Sun Protection Conference. In 2008, he won the Lester Conrad Award for the Best Paper at the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists annual conference in Surfers Paradise, Queensland. He has also written or co-authored more than 30 articles and 6 book chapters on formulating sunscreens, in-vitro SPF testing, and nanotechnology. He is also a member of the Editorial Advisory Board for the International Journal of Cosmetic Science.

*Solaveil is a registered trademark of the Croda group of companies

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A Word from Julian Hewitt :
Cosmetic formulation is endlessly fascinating; there is always something new to learn.

Fields of Expertise

Sun Care
30
UV Filters / Sunscreens
30
Cosmetic Formulation
30
Sun Protection
30
High SPF
20
Bio / Organic / Natural
10
Regulation
10
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Works

Books

  • “New and Emerging Sunscreen Technologies”, in “Clinical Guide to Sunscreens and Photoprotection”, eds. Lim & Draelos (Informa Healthcare, New York, 2009), pp.155-168
  • “Formulating with Nanotechnology in Skin Care: Opportunities and Challenges”, in “Nanotechnology in Dermatology”, eds. Nasir, Friedman and Wang (Springer Science+Business Media, New York, 2013), pp.1-8
  • “SPF Modulation”, in “Sunscreens”, edited by NA Shaath, 3rd edn. (Taylor-Francis, New York, 2005), pp.385-412
  • “Broad Spectrum Physical Sunscreens : Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide”, in “Sunscreens – Development, Evaluation, and Regulatory Aspects”, eds. Lowe, Shaath & Pathak, 2nd edn. (Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York, 1997), pp 353-397. (co-author with M.W.Anderson and S.R.Spruce)
  • “Inorganic Sunscreens”, in “The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics: Volume III – Ingredients”, edited by ML Schlossman, 3rd edn. (Allured Books, 2002), pp.527-552
  • More books
  • “Sunscreen Formulation: Optimising Aesthetic elements for Twenty-First Century Consumers”, in “Principles and Practice of Photoprotection”, eds. Wang and Lim (Springer International Publishing, Switzerland, 2016), pp.289-302
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Papers

  • “Meeting the UVA Challenge: Inorganic-only Sun Protection”, Cosmetics & Toiletries, September 2010, pp.32-38 (co-author with P.Staniland)
  • “A Formulation Strategy for High SPF Sun Care Products”, SOFW Global Ingredients & Formulation Guide 2009 (Verlag für chemische Industrie)
  • “Formulating Inorganic-only Sunscreen Systems to meet Global UVA Protection Requirements”, Household & Personal Care Today, no.3 / 2010, Sun Care Supplement, pp.22-24 (September 2010)
  • “Optimising Sunscreen Delivery via UV Filter Use”, Personal Care Europe, 4(4), November 2011, pp.39-43
  • “Bright Ideas”, SPC, 84(4), April 2011, pp.85-92
  • More papers
  • “Using Inorganic Sunscreens To Enhance The Photostability Of Organic Sunscreens: Dispersion Effects”, Household & Personal Care Today no.2 / 2008, Sun Care Supplement, pp.12-14 (July 2008) and Personal Care Asia, September 2008
  • “Formulating for Tomorrow : UV Protection in Daily Use Skin Care”, Household & Personal Care Today, April 2006
  • “Formulating for Tomorrow : UV Protection in Daily Use Skin Care”, Nutraceutical Business & Technology, Cosmeceutical Supplement, pp.9-11 (March/April 2008)
  • “Aiming Higher”, SPC, 82(4), April 2009, pp.67-68 (co.author with J.Hart)
  • “Inorganic Sunscreens and Other Nanomaterials in Personal Care: Opportunities and Safety Considerations” Cosmetics & Toiletries, December 2008
  • “Formulating Sun Protection Products for the 21st Century: Efficacy, Elegance and Globality”, Sun Protection Conference (“Sun Protection for the 21st Century”), London, June 2013 and Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, September 2013
  • “Meeting Your Sunscreen Claims: Test Methods and Formulation Tips”, SCS Educational Event, London, June 2014
  • “Trends and Novel Technologies in Sun Protection”, SCS Formulate Knowledge Seminar, Coventry, November 2011
  • “Meeting UVA Protection Requirements in a Changing Global Regulatory Environment”, CosChem Conference, Midrand, South Africa, August 2010
  • “Formulating Global Sunscreen Systems”, Sun Protection Conference (“The UVA Challenge”), London, June 2011
  • “New Opportunities for Global Sunscreen Formulations”, Cosmetic Days Symposium, Marseille, December 2016
  • “Efficacy and Elegance in 21st Century Sun Care”, Cosmetics & Toiletries 129(3), April 2014, pp. 58-65 (co-author with J.Teague and P. Sutcliffe)
  • “Formulating Elegant Sun Protection Products”, SCS Formulate Masterclass, Coventry, November 2015
  • “Efficacy and Elegance in Sun Protection”, In-Cosmetics Workshop: “The new science of suncare research: New dangers or benefits for the skin?”, Barcelona, April 2015
  • “New Opportunities for Global Sunscreen Formulations?”, Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, September 2015
  • “New Formulating Opportunities in UV Protection”, Euro-Cosmetics, 12 (3), March 2004
  • “Better Protection by Simple Means: Novel formulation strategies for high SPF and broad spectrum sunscreen products”, Parfümerie und Kosmetik, 80/4, pp.36-39 (April 1999)
  • Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review (South Africa), Sep/Oct 1997, pp.21-25
  • Cosmetics & Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide (Aston Publishing Group), 1999, pp.135-141
  • Global Cosmetic Industry, 166 (2), February 2000, pp.28-36
  • “Formulating Water-resistant TiO2 Sunscreens”, Cosmetics & Toiletries, 114 (9), Sep.1999, pp.59-63
  • “Titanium Dioxide: A Different Kind of Sunshield”, Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 151(3), Sep.1992, pp.26-32
  • Molecular Physics, 1988, 65 (2), pp.423-438 (co-author with C.A.Hamilton, K.A.McLauchlan and U.E.Steiner)
  • “In-vitro SPF: Methodology and Correlation with in-vivo Data”, Euro-Cosmetics, 3 (6), pp14-20, June 1995 (co-author with S.R.Spruce
  • SPC, 69 (3), March 1996, pp.23-25
  • “Formulating with Physical Sunscreens: Control of Emulsion pH”, Drug & Cosmetic Industry, August 1995
  • Global Cosmetic Industry, 166 (7), December 2001, pp.38-43
  • Cosmetics & Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide (Aston Publishing Group), 2001, pp.14-21
  • “A Moment of Clarity”, SPC, 75 (3), March 2002, pp. 47-50
  • “Delivering UV Protection Every Day”, HAPPI, 40 (9), September 2003, pp. 90-96 (co-author with P.Rossi)
  • Euro-Cosmetics, 11 (3), March 2003, pp. 24-28
  • “Efficacy and Transparency of Physical Sunscreens”, COSSMA, 1 (3), March 2000, pp.16-18
  • Cosmetics & Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide (Aston Publishing Group), 2000, pp.292-297
  • “Factors Influencing Efficacy of Oil-Dispersed Physical Sunscreens” IFSCC Magazine, 3 (1), January-March 2000, pp.18-23
  • “Effective Use of Physical Sunscreens: Incorporation of Physical Sunscreens into Water-in-Oil Emulsions”, Euro-Cosmetics, 8 (6), June 2000, pp. 19-23
  • “Partners in Protection”, SPC, 73 (3), March 2000, pp. 85-87
  • European UV Sunfilters Conference, Paris, November 1998
  • “Effective and Elegant Sun Protection with Physical Sunscreens”, Sun Protection Conference, London, March 1999
  • “Novel Formulation Strategies for High SPF and Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Products”, IFSCC Congress, Cannes, September 1998 (poster)
  • “Effects of Film-Forming Polymers on Efficacy and Water-resistancy of Physical Sunscreens”, Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Miami, September 1997
  • SCS Spring Conference / In-Cosmetics Conference, London, April 1998 (co-author with G P Dransfield and P L Lyth)
  • In-Cosmetics Conference, Barcelona, April 2000
  • “Formulating to Achieve High UVA Protection in Sun Products”, Sun Protection Conference (“UVA Protection – A Major Issue of Minor Importance ?”), London, June 2001
  • “Effective Use of Physical Sunscreens: Incorporation of Physical Sunscreens into Water-in-Oil Emulsions”, European UV Sunfilters Conference, Paris, November 1999
  • Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, September 1999
  • “Factors Influencing Efficacy of Oil-Dispersed Physical Sunscreens”, IFSCC Conference, Midrand, South Africa, October 1999 (co-author with J.Woodruff)
  • SCC Scientific Meeting, New York, December 1995
  • “Effective Use of Physical Sunscreens: Recent Advances”, Broad Spectrum Sun Protection Conference, London, March 1997
  • IFSCC Conference, Montreux, September 1995 (poster)
  • “Effective Use of Physical Sunscreens in Cosmetic Formulations”, International Symposium on Cosmetic Sciences, Taichung, Taiwan, May 1994
  • “Formulating Strategies for UV Protection in Prestige Suncare and Skincare Products”, Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, April 2002
  • “Using Inorganic Sunscreens To Enhance The Photostability Of Organic Sunscreens: Dispersion Effects”, Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Conference, Surfers Paradise, March 2008 (co-author with J.Stott and A.Duggan)
  • “Natural Sun Protection: Can We Make an Effective “Green” Sunscreen?”, In-Cosmetics Innovation Seminars, Amsterdam, April 2008
  • “Magic Bullets? An Assessment of SPF Boosting Technology”, Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Conference, Surfers Paradise, March 2008 (co-author with H.Hine)
  • “Improving Compatibility and Photostability in Mixed Organic/Inorganic Sunscreen Formulations”, In-Cosmetics Innovation Seminars, Paris, April 2007
  • “Using Experimental Design to Optimise Sunscreen Formulations”, Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, September 2007 (co-author with C.Verboom, S.Housley & J.Frank)
  • “Characterisation of Titanium Dioxide Nanoparticles in Sunscreens”, Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, September 2009 (poster) (co-author with I.R.Tooley)
  • “Xtra Protection Across the Spectrum: Inorganic-only Sun Protection with Enhanced UVA Performance”, In-Cosmetics Innovation Seminars, Paris, April 2010
  • “Formulating Strategies to Meet Differing UVA Requirements Around the World”, Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, September 2009
  • “Nanomaterials in Personal Care: An Opportunity or a Threat?”, Natural Beauty Summit, Paris, October 2008
  • “Aiming Higher: A Formulation Strategy for High SPF”, In-Cosmetics Innovation Seminars, Munich, April 2009
  • “Choosing Emollients for Sunscreen Formulations”, IFSCC Congress, Orlando, October 2004 (poster) (co-author with J.Bell)
  • “Formulating Strategies for Effective UVA Protection”, IFSCC Congress, Orlando, October 2004 (poster)
  • “Optimising the Sensory Properties of Physical Sunscreen Formulations”, IFSCC Congress, Orlando, October 2004 (poster) (co-author with H.Hine & L.M.Kessell)
  • "The Influence of Emulsion Structure on SPF in Physical Sunscreen Formulations”, IFSCC Congress, Edinburgh, September 2002 (poster) (co-author with S.Housley and A.C.Pool)
  • “Formulating with Aqueous TiO2 Dispersions” European Sunfilters Conference, Paris, October 2003. Also presented at the Joint ASCC/NZSCC Australasian Conference, Auckland, March 2004
  • “UV Filter Combinations for High SPF Broad Spectrum Protection”, In-Cosmetics Innovation Seminars, Barcelona, April 2006
  • “Optimising the Sensory Properties of Inorganic Sunscreens for Asian Skin”, Asian Societies of Cosmetic Scientists Conference, Singapore, March 2007 (co-author with L.M.Kessell and B.J.Naden)
  • “Integrating Theory And Practice In Sun Care Formulations : Layer Thickness Models For Inorganic Sunscreens”, IFSCC Congress, Osaka, October 2006 (poster)
  • “Formulating for Tomorrow : UV Protection in Daily Use Skin Care”, UK SCS Spring Symposium, Wotton-under-Edge, May 2005
  • “Combining UV Filters for High SPF Broad Spectrum Protection: A Global Perspective”, Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, September 2005
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