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Cosmetics Ingredients
SpecialChem

APPS vitamin C derivative for skin care

APPS is a unique vitamin C derivative successfully used in skin care (creams, lotions, serums) and offering outstanding beneficial effects: anti-aging, brightening, anti-acne

APPS vitamin C derivative

Skin care formulations with APPS

Infographic

FAQ

FAQ – APPS vitamin C derivative

APPS technical characteristics

  What is the physical state of APPS?
APPS is a solid. It is presented under a white to pale yellow powder form.

  Is APPS more stable than vitamin C?
Vitamin C shows lack of stability in oxidative conditions or under light exposure which is not the case of APPS vitamin C derivative. Vitamin C derivatives are chemically modified versions of vitamin C which are more stable.

Formulate with APPS

  In which Cosmetics applications can we use APPS?
APPS can be used in skin care formulations (for facial and body products) but not in sun screen applications.

  Can we get a brightening effect and/or a whitening/lightening effect thanks to APPS?
You can get a brightening effect on all skin types. However, the whitening/lightening effect has not been proven on dark skin types yet.

  What is the ideal concentration of APPS in the total skin care formulation?
At only 1% concentration of the total formulation, APPS offers beneficial effects to the skin (brightening, anti-aging, anti-acne). You can even try less as it has already been successful in some commercialized skin care products . It depends on your formulation.
Adding more than 1,5% concentration of APPS would lead to a too « rich » formulation.

  How can I ensure the stability of a formulation containing APPS?
First of all, it is recommended to have a pH slightly alkaline for your skin care formulation. Indeed, APPS is more stable at around pH=8.
In addition, to have a more stable formulation, we suggest to add dihydric alcohols in the formulation in order to prevent the hydrolysis of APPS (dihydric alcohols such as butylene glycol, 1,2-pentandiol, 1,2-hexandiol or dipropylene glycol).

Storage conditions for APPS

  Is there any condition for the storage of APPS?
For a good storage, you should:
  • Avoid direct sunlight;
  • Not store it in a place where an alkaline material, oxidizer, or organic peroxide is stored;
  • Not store it in a place close to heat sources including a boiler or combustibles;
  • Store it in a well-ventilated, dry and dark place after sealing the container closely.


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